After Hours

Café Rowan’s collaboration series draws world-class chefs to Portland

By Neil Ferguson

When chef Spencer Ivankoe opened Café Rowan in Portland’s Creston-Kenilworth neighborhood in March of 2020, serving brunch was not exactly what he had in mind. But the COVID-19 pandemic turned the restaurant world upside down.

“I ripped my business plan in half and went back to the drawing board. I remembered how much people loved brunch when I lived in New York City. I decided to pivot and add some fun here in the Northwest. People could come and go, food traveled well in a box– it worked,” reflects Ivankoe.

After setting aside his fine-dining dream, Ivankoe built a loyal following as one of the city’s best brunch destinations. Elevated takes on breakfast sandwiches, burritos and eggs Benedict include foraged mushrooms, Dungeness crab and salmon, in-season, local produce and Tillamook cheese. The menu soon generated long wait times, and when Café Rowan introduced Maine lobster rolls in 2021, a popular trend began.

Finding success through brunch and lobster rolls– against the headwinds of the pandemic, inflation and several break-ins, Ivankoe could have eased into a comfortable routine. But he couldn’t shake his passion for fine dining. His years in esteemed, high-pressure Manhattan kitchens beckoned.

“I missed fine dining and longed to offer dinner service. Following a handful of small pop-up dinner events, sometimes involving Oregon wineries as collaborators, Ivankoe started an innovative concept at Café Rowan. Launched last November, his “Cooking With Friends” series has since evolved into what Ivankoe calls “A Culinary Harmony.”

“I saw how fun these dinners with friends were, so I figured any chef would probably feel the same way about coming here to cook with my team,” he states.

“I explained to my fiancée how I wanted to do this series. She pushed me to actually make it happen. The next day, I invited 21 chefs, and 19 agreed to come to Portland. Some were old bosses, colleagues, friends–others were chefs I thought were cooking really special food,” recalls Ivankoe.

These all-star monthly dinners feature collaborative tasting menus served over a two-night residency. To date, heavy-hitters include Andrew Zimmerman, 14-time Michelin Star winner and five-time James Beard Award finalist formerly with Sepia in Chicago; Matt Lightner, the Michelin-starred chef behind okta; Fidel Caballero of New York City’s Corima and Vato; and Galen Kennemer of One White Street (also in New York City).

The idea is simple: Ivankoe shares the menu with each chef, and together they curate dishes that complement each other. “The format never changes– we create an eight-course menu and split it down the middle. The visiting chef chooses their four courses. They bring a piece of who they are and where they’re from. I want them to be comfortable and have a good time here. It’s a lot of work planning these, but in the end it’s so worth it,” admits Ivankoe. 

At the inaugural dinner featuring Chris Cipollone of the Michelin-starred Brooklyn bistro Francie, diners were treated to wildly creative and sophisticated dishes like chawanmushi with lobster and caviar, moulard duck with foie gras and figs, a reimagined baked Alaska, coupled with inspired, mostly Oregon wine pairings. Each subsequent dinner finds Ivankoe, his team and the featured guest chef working to showcase their unique culinary talents.

Consulting beverage director and sommelier Ron Acierto plays a complementary role, offering his worldly wine picks, often leaning into lesser-known, small production wines from the Willamette Valley and beyond. The ever-changing concept allows him to take risks and push boundaries not be possible in a traditional restaurant setting.

“I could list a hundred reasons why this series is exciting for any wine professional. The excitement we see on our guests’ faces is part of our reward. Pairing wines with many courses is an adventure for both me and our diners. Most somms work with numerous chefs in their careers, but working with 19 over a year is so much fun– as well as educational and experiential,” shares Acierto.

This has led to some especially memorable moments for Acierto, who relishes the opportunity to be innovative and share rare bottles with dinner guests. He notes a recent pairing of library wines: a 2013 Chardonnay and 2016 Syrah from Brittan Vineyards that provided a teachable moment.

“Guests were surprised that both wines were beautifully aged and amazingly full of flavors. The small production Brittan Syrah was a big hit. Many didn’t know the variety grows in the Willamette Valley,” recalls Acierto.

Other compelling wines: 2013 Beaux Frères Pinot Noir, an elegant and balanced Chardonnay crafted by Olive Hamilton Russell, an Arabilis sparkling rosé made with Pinot Meunier and a Trousseau from iconic The Eyrie Vineyards.

At each dinner, Acierto breezes around the room with confidence and a sort of quiet exuberance as he pours rare, unexpected gems. His pairing approach isn’t clinical and formulaic but based on wines he finds interesting.

“I approach these dinners by digging into each chef’s cooking background and history. Is there a theme I need to consider? What specific ingredients, style or technique will be highlighted? I receive the menu a week before the dinner, and we’ll discuss the particulars of each dish,” explains Acierto.

As the wine industry experiences significant challenges, with many asking how to get people excited about the beverage, and fine dining establishments facing a slumping economy and waning diner interest, Café Rowan’s series feels unique.

“Diners get to enjoy wines they might never have tasted before. They also experience how skillful pairing enhances the flavors of the food, and vice versa. Skilled matches allow mingling in surprising ways. These dinners offer a rare opportunity to enjoy both together,” observes Acierto.

Dinners at Café Rowan don’t carry the pretension of traditional fine dining. Instead, they are uniquely Portland, joining memorable dishes and wines without fuss or pretension. Who knew Michelin-starred dishes would be served in a former Starbucks?

“Bringing together like-minded individuals for a really fun weekend of cooking is deeply rewarding. Friendships are created, and future collaborations are already in the works. Brunch and dinner provide such different experiences and our guests really enjoy this new chapter of Café Rowan. Cooking with my first-ever mentor after 19 years was especially memorable,” acknowledges Ivankoe.

Beginning in July, the Café Rowan team is launching a new concept consisting of a small share plate-style à la carte menu with an option for an eight-course chef tasting Thursday through Saturday. This new chapter is sure to generate plenty of buzz with foodies and wine lovers alike.

Neil Ferguson is a journalist, editor and marketer. Originally from the tiny state of Rhode Island and spending his formative years in Austin, Texas, he has long focused his writing around cultural pursuits, whether they be music, beer, wine or food. Neil previously worked as director of marketing for the Oregon Wine Board. He currently contributes regularly to Willamette Week, Sip Magazine, The New School, Glide Magazine and other outlets. Read more at www.neilferguson.work.