Shelter in Kitchen
Oregon chefs stay home, stay safe and cook up a storm
Thank you to all the chefs who took time out of their busy days to inspire us with some darn good recipes and fun photos, too.
Dutch Baby
By Innkeeper/Chef Sara Kundelius / Abbey Road Farm, Carlton
Serves 4
“As chefs who cook breakfast for a living, we sometimes have a hard time enjoying breakfast foods ourselves, and when that happens this is our go-to dish to eat. It takes very few ingredients, is quick and can be topped with either sweet or savory options. The best part is this isn’t just for breakfast; it is a great anytime snack or dinner.“ —S.K.
Oregon Wine Pairing
Abbey Road Farm 2018 Sparkling Pinot Gris (sweet Dutch baby), Statera Cellars 2016 Eola Springs Chardonnay (savory)
Ingredients
2 eggs
½ cup flour (all-purpose or pastry)
½ cup milk
2–3 tablespoons melted butter
Directions
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Grease a 10-inch cast-iron pan or 9-by-13-inch cake pan (recipe is easily doubled with bigger pan) with melted butter and set aside. Crack eggs in bowl and whisk. Add flour and whisk until lump-free. Add milk and stir slowly at first; it will be a thin batter. Pour batter into buttered pan. Bake until golden brown (about 22 to 30 minutes). The pancake will get really puffy.
Toppings
Sweet: lemon juice, butter and powdered sugar; or butter, cinnamon and sugar. Savory: crème fraîche, sautéed mushrooms and fresh herbs.
Roasted Carrots with Salsa Verde, Almonds & Chèvre
By Chef Ryley Eckersley / Quaintrelle, Portland
Serves 6
Oregon Wine Pairing
James Rahn 2016 Rainsong Vineyard Pinot Meunier
Ingredients
1 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more to cover if needed
½ cup packed mint leaves
1 sprig dill
1 teaspoon rosemary
2 bunches green onion
1 cup almonds
1 tablespoon shallots
1 teaspoon lemon juice
2 teaspoons lemon zest
1 teaspoon Sauvignon Blanc
* big handful of brassicas (broccoli raab, kale, kohlrabi, cabbage, etc.)
1 pound carrots
1 to 2 ounces chèvre
Directions
Finely chop, mint, dill and rosemary. Coarsely chop almonds and green onions. Mince shallots. Combine all ingredients except carrots, brassicas and chèvre; toss well. Season brassicas generously and grill to blacken a bit. Then chop them small (a bit bigger than the herbs, more like the size of nuts). Roast carrots with salt and pepper and extra-virgin olive oil. Cover carrots with salsa verde. Add a few dollops of chèvre.
Canard’s Steam Burgers
By Executive Chef/Co-owner Gabriel Rucker / Le Pigeon and Canard, Portland
Makes 12
“This recipe was the spark that created the steam burgers we serve today at Canard. We realized this exact recipe wasn’t going to work in the restaurant, but this version is a great way to prepare steam burgers at home. No grill needed, just burger goodness.” —G.R.
Oregon Wine Pairing
Martin Woods 2018 Gamay Noir
Ingredients
2½ pounds ground beef
12 slices American cheese
1½ cup bread & butter pickle relish (we prefer spicy)
1 pouch Lipton French onion soup mix
1 tablespoon salt
* yellow mustard
1 white onion, minced
1 package King’s Hawaiian rolls
Directions
Preheat oven to 400 degrees. In bowl, thoroughly mix ground beef, salt and onion soup mix. On non-stick cookie tray, spread meat evenly into thin layer, roughly 1 inch larger on each side of the whole Hawaiian rolls package. (It doesn’t need to be exact; just know they will shrink when cooking.) Using fingers, make dimples into meat mixture. Bake about 10 minutes. (Do not throw away drippings.)
In small sauté pan, add beef drippings and onions, sweating until translucent and flavorful. (Your kitchen should smell like hamburger onions.) Spread onions over baked meat, then spread relish and top with American cheese; bake again at 400 degrees for approximately 3 minutes.
Cut whole loaf of Hawaiian rolls in half. Spread yellow mustard on lower half of rolls. Using 2 spatulas, place hamburger goodness on the lower half of rolls, then add top half. You can cut and serve like this, or if you want a true steam burger experience, steam for an additional 30 seconds and then cut and serve.
Ceci con Gamberi
By Chef Jason Barwikowski / Hiyu Wine Farm, Hood River
Serves 4
Oregon Wine Pairing
Hiyu Hypericum, a Mediterranean varietals field blend white
Slow-cooked Shrimp with Aromatics
1 pound shrimp, peeled/deveined (40 to 60 count for this dish, but any will work)
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature
1 tablespoon good olive oil
2 strips fresh lemon zest and juice from same lemon
1 sprig fresh rosemary
* goodly pinch chili flakes
* sea salt
* black pepper from the mill
Directions
Bring shrimp from cooler 20 minutes before cooking to temper them. Gather rest of ingredients (mise en place) while they temper. Place a large, shallow pan (large enough to hold shrimp without crowding) over a medium flame. Add butter and oil. As butter melts, swirl to combine. When butter starts to foam bit, add aromatics and stir to coat with butter and oil mixture. When fragrant, about a minute, add shrimp and stir well to coat. Season well with salt and pepper. Cook until shrimp are opaque and just cooked through. Serve while hot.
Chickpea Purée
2 cup dried chickpeas, soaked in cold water at least 6 hours prior to cooking
1 quart cold water plus additional for soaking
1 teaspoon baking soda
2 bay leaves
1 dried chili (I like hot varieties like Calabrian or Cayenne)
* sea salt; approx. 1 tablespoon
* good olive oil, approx. ½ cup
Directions
Soak chickpeas overnight or at least 6 hours before cooking. Drain well, and rinse briefly. Put into pot with about 1 quart water. Place over high flame and bring to a boil. Skim off any foam rising to surface and discard. Reduce heat to simmer and add baking soda and aromatics. Cover pot leaving lid slightly ajar and cook beans until very tender. Keep an eye on water level in bean pot. You want liquid to be just at the level of beans when done. Add or pour off as needed, depending on soaking time and age of beans, 1½ to 2 hours.
When beans are close to fully cooked, add salt. Remove bay leaves. (I leave chili in.) Transfer beans and liquid to blender. Carefully, as hot liquids expand, blend the beans while slowly pouring olive oil into mix. Blend until very smooth. Pour out and use as sauce for couscous and shrimp.
Simple Couscous
1 cup couscous
1½ cup cold water
1 tablespoon good olive oil
1 teaspoon sea salt
* black pepper from the mill
Directions
Place couscous in wide, shallow container, like a pie plate. Add oil, salt and grinds of pepper to water; bring to a boil. Pour water over couscous and stir to mix. Cover couscous with plastic wrap or tight-fitting lid and leave covered for 10 minutes. Remove lid and gently fluff couscous with fork, taking care to break up clumps. Serve with shrimp and chickpea purée.
Assembly
Pour chickpea purée on plate, top with a bit of couscous and finally add a generous scoop of shrimp and pan sauces.
Spring Tagliatelle
By Executive Chef Sara Woods / Vaux, Portland
Serves 4
“Homemade pasta is a bit of a project to make, but it’s not terribly difficult and always delicious, so it’s definitely worth it. This pasta recipe seems very stiff and hard at first, but once it’s together and has rested for 30 or more minutes, it’s much easier to work with. You can also buy fresh-made tagliatelle, if you don’t want to make it from scratch.” —S.W.
Oregon Wine Pairing
Harper Voit Pinot Blanc
Fresh Pasta
Makes 10–12 portions
5 ¾ cups (700g) all-purpose flour
1 cup (180g) semolina flour plus more for dusting
2 teaspoons (5g) kosher salt
3 egg yolks (60g)
6 eggs (300g)
2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon water (35g)
Directions
In bowl of stand mixer, combine dry ingredients. Add all wet ingredients; mix for about 10 minutes. If needed, add more water, 1 tablespoon at a time, until dough comes together in a rough ball. (Note: This is strong dough) Remove from mixer and knead on countertop just until a cohesive ball. Wrap tightly in plastic and let rest in refrigerator at least 30 minutes or overnight.
Roll out pasta, slice ball into pieces the width of your pinky, about ½ inch, using pasta roller or rolling pin. Roll out each piece as thin as you can make it. If using pasta machine, go slowly through each setting so you don’t break the gears. After rolling, fold it over on itself until it’s just the width of the machine (or in half, three or so times). Repeat previous process, rolling out sheet until just thinner than you think it should be. It’s important not to skip this roll, fold, roll step; it helps develop gluten in pasta and creates a desirable al dente toothiness.
To cut pasta, liberally sprinkle sheet with semolina flour to keep from sticking to itself and gently fold like a letter. Cut ribbons of pasta to your desired width, erring on side of thinner rather than thicker. I cut them into 1-inch strips.
At this point, either cook and eat pasta immediately or portion and freeze it for later. Just toss the pasta strips in more semolina, so they don’t stick together, portion large handfuls onto baking sheet; pop in freezer. Once completely frozen, store in freezer bag. No need to thaw before cooking.
Spring Tagliatelle
“Use whatever lovely spring produce you have.” —S.W.
Ingredients
5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
4 cloves of garlic, thinly sliced
1 bunch ramps, tops only, cut into 1-inch strips
1 pint cherry tomatoes
2 ounces pecorino Romano, finely ground or grated with a microplane
1 lemon
4 quarts water
2 tablespoons semolina flour
* kosher salt
Directions
Toss cherry tomatoes in 1 tablespoon olive oil; spread on baking sheet and roast at 450 degrees until split and browning, about 15 minutes. Let sit until needed. While tomatoes cook, start pasta water. Bring water, semolina flour and good amount of kosher salt to a boil in large pot.
In large, straight-sided sauté pan, warm 4 tablespoons olive oil and garlic over medium-high heat, stirring often; cook until garlic just begins to brown. Add ramp tops, roasted tomatoes and ¼ cup pasta cooking water. Turn off heat.
Depending on thickness, pasta should only take 1 to 2 minutes to cook. Once it’s floating, it’s ready. Drain pasta and immediately add to sauce. Turn heat back on and stir until sauce thickens and clings to pasta. Plate pasta with fresh grated pecorino Romano and zest of ¼ lemon per plate.
