Citrus and the Sea

Enliven winter with bright, fresh flavors

Back from the Market with Chef Red Hauge

Ahi Poke

Serves 6 to 8

Wine Suggestion: Pinot Gris

Red Hauge

A father, fisherman, forager and gardener, Chef Red resides in McMinnville with his partner, Allyson, and son, Anders. Red has spent 25 years cooking alongside celebrated chefs in Chicago, Aspen, Miami, Portland, Boston, St. John, USVI, and New York. He and Raul Salinas III recently opened R&R Culinaire, a scratch kitchen and catering company.


¼ cup soy sauce

2 teaspoons fish sauce

2 teaspoons Sriracha hot sauce

2 tablespoons sesame oil

1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger

1/3 cup thinly sliced green onions, plus more for serving 

3 tablespoons crushed, roasted macadamia nuts                 

1 tablespoon finely crumbled dried seaweed

½ teaspoon hot red pepper flakes

½ teaspoon kosher salt or to taste

1 pound sushi-grade ahi (yellow fin) tuna, cut into 3/4-inch cubes

1 teaspoon toasted sesame seeds

* lemon or lime juice; or seasoned rice vinegar, sprinkle


  1. Whisk together soy sauce, fish sauce, Sriracha, sesame oil, grated ginger, sliced onions, macadamia nuts, seaweed, pepper flakes and salt in a bowl.
  2. Place cubed tuna into bowl. Pour in marinade and stir to distribute evenly. Cover and refrigerate 2 hours. Mix again.
  3. Serve topped with toasted sesame seeds, sliced green onions and sprinkle of lemon or lime juice, or seasoned rice vinegar.

Lobster Thermidor

Serves 6 to 8

Wine Suggestion: Chardonnay


3–4 2½-pound live lobsters

8 tablespoons butter

6 tablespoons all-purpose flour

1½ cup stock (lobster, fish or chicken), divided

2 cups milk

2 teaspoons nutmeg

2/3 cup white wine

3 tablespoons dry sherry dry

2–3 shallots, finely chopped

2–4 tablespoons fresh tarragon, chopped

4 large egg yolks

1½ cups heavy cream

1 teaspoon dry mustard

* salt and pepper, to taste

* paprika, sprinkle

* olive oil, drizzle


  1. Place live lobsters in large pot of boiling salted water for 6 minutes; then plunge into ice bath to chill.
  2. Split lobsters in half lengthwise and pull tail meat; set aside. Gently crack claws and remove meat; add to tail. Spoon out “flavor” from head; set aside. Roughly chop meat.
  3. Gently rinse all shells; set aside.
  4. Make béchamel sauce: In small skillet or saucepan, make roux by melting butter and adding flour. Cook until blond colored, about 3 to 4 minutes. Add ½ cup stock; stir well to combine. Bring to a simmer; then slowly add milk, stirring continuously. Let mixture come to a simmer; then add salt and pepper to taste, followed by fresh grated nutmeg. (It’s very important to not let this boil.) Set aside.
  5. In small frying pan, add wine, sherry, 1 cup stock, shallots and tarragon; boil down until thick, almost a glaze.
  6. Add glaze to béchamel; stir well to combine.
  7. Mix cream with egg yolks, slowly adding some béchamel-glaze mixture to cream, stirring constantly. When you reach ½ cup of new mixture, pour it all back into rest of the béchamel-glaze mixture. (This “tempers” the cream-egg mixture so you don’t get scrambled eggs in your sauce.) Again, do not let this boil.
  8. Add dry mustard and some salt to taste. Cook until sauce is thickened, then fold in “flavor” from lobster followed by lobster meat; mix well.
  9. Carefully spoon mixture back into clean lobster bodies. Sprinkle with paprika and drizzle of olive oil; bake in 400°F oven 6 to 8 minutes.

Lemon Shortbread Cookies

Serves 6 to 8

Wine Suggestion: Riesling


3 lemons

1½ cups sugar

¼ pound unsalted butter, room-temperature

4 extra-large eggs, plus 3 egg yolks

½ cup lemon juice (3 to 4 lemons)

1/8 teaspoon kosher salt

1 cup all-purpose flour

¼ cup sugar

¼ teaspoon salt

½ cup chilled unsalted butter, cut into ½-inch cubes

3 egg whites

¼ teaspoon cream of tartar

¾ cup white sugar

* mint


  1. Place zest of 3 lemons in food processor fitted with steel blade. Add sugar and pulse until zest is very finely minced into sugar.
  2. Cream butter and beat in sugar and lemon mixture. Add eggs, 1 at a time; then add lemon juice and salt. Mix until combined.
  3. Pour mixture into 2-quart saucepan; cook over low heat until thickened, about 10 minutes, stirring constantly. Lemon curd will thicken at about 170°F or just below simmer. Remove from heat and cool; place directly into pastry bag (or gallon Ziploc will substitute) and refrigerate.
  4. Preheat oven to 300°F.
  5. Lightly butter 9-inch-diameter springform pan.
  6. Whisk flour, sugar and salt in medium bowl to blend. Add ½ cup butter and rub in with fingertips until mixture resembles coarse meal.
  7. Gather dough together, forming a ball. Flatten dough into disk and roll out on lightly floured surface to ½-inch-thick. Transfer round to prepared pan. Press dough evenly over bottom to edges of pan.
  8. Using tip of small sharp knife, score dough into 8 equal triangles; then pierce all over with fork. Bake until shortbread is cooked through and pale golden, about 45 minutes.
  9. In electric mixer, beat egg whites with cream of tartar until foamy; gradually add ¾ cup of white sugar until stiff peaks form. Place meringue in pastry bag and reserve.
  10. To assemble, pipe layer of lemon curd onto cooled cookies; then pipe meringue on top. Garnish with fresh zest of lemon and mint.



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