Vino Vanguards: Part One
Learn how several wine events are finding success
By Neil Ferguson
Recent headlines point to a range of challenges facing our beloved fermented grape juice. Inflation, the rise of alternative beverages, a fervent neo-Prohibitionist movement, the popularity of weight loss drugs, and a lack of disposable income or interest in wine among Gen Z are all cited as reasons for declining consumption. Pandemic-era restrictions and protests damaged Portland’s reputation– the gateway to much of the state’s wine country– while policy missteps have fueled homelessness and drug use. And Oregon’s long, gray winters don’t exactly make it easy to entice visitors to wineries.
Many winemakers are feeling the pinch while trying to answer the million-dollar question: what compels people– especially Gen Z– to visit tasting rooms and buy bottles. For its part, much of the industry has offered little help or support, instead relying on its usual cycle of introspection: holding meetings, discussing issues and patting itself on the back without actually implementing any viable solutions. We’ve seen this play out in marketing campaigns urging people to hang out or try a food pairing that feels soulless and out of touch with actual people, especially younger consumers.
Luckily, it’s not all doom and gloom. Plenty of event organizers and wineries are finding creative ways to drive excitement and sales of wine. Let’s meet a few of them in this two-part series.
In Eastern Washington, straddling the Oregon border, sits the bustling wine community of Walla Walla. Known for full-bodied red wines, it’s also home to the increasingly popular heavy metal-themed festival Blood of Gods Annual Merrymaking, an in-person iteration of the wine and music-focused Blood of Gods ‘zine Stacy Buchanan started in 2020.
“I was inspired by cool breweries, including Holy Mountain and Trve Brewing, who were dovetailing their love of metal with their craft. They always seemed to be having so much fun being their authentic selves. Meanwhile, wine seemed to be the ‘no fun club…’ more competitive and status-oriented with little enjoyment,” notes Buchanan.
The main event is a sight to behold: tattooed rockers in patch-covered denim vests rubbing elbows with master somms and winemakers, all while sipping Grenache and Mourvèdre. Later, a nearby winery hosts a full-on heavy metal show (accompanied by more wine and maybe a few PBRs). Shockingly different, it’s a refreshing way to unite unlikely demographics.
“I have this memory from last year– a real ‘aha!’ moment. Amid the Merrymaking crowd was an older gentleman with white hair, wearing glasses and a pink polo shirt, who looked ready to golf at a country club. Next to him stood a few crusty punk girls sporting mohawks and battle vests... All were smiling, laughing and having a good time. It's really the best event to let your hair down, enjoy wine and ask questions with no judgment,” Buchanan recalls.
Nearly 300 miles away, the Willamette Valley is seeing a new generation of wine events that feel fresh, focused and inclusive. While Boomer-leaning festivals like the International Pinot Noir Celebration calling it quits might seem like a bad omen, recent years have brought a flurry of exciting activities.
Rather than charging one hefty ticket price, forcing attendees to commit to several days, these events focus on niche audiences, wines or food. AAPI Food & Wine spotlights Asian winemakers and chefs, while Queer Wine Fest celebrates the LGBTQ+ wine community. For Martin Skegg and Mallory Smith, Alt Wine Fest (reimagined this year as the smaller Alt Wine Remixed) offers the chance to sample from winemakers working with grapes beyond Pinot Noir, in a laid-back setting. Proudly “anti-gatekeeping,” Smith acknowledges they successfully attract wine-curious people who may be “intrigued by the non-Pinot (i.e., nonconformist) aspect of the annual event.”
Appeal beyond wine’s traditional audiences is central to Alt Wine’s mission. “This festival draws people who like wine but aren’t necessarily part of the conventional ‘wine’ community. They might not know the right words to sound cool in the tasting rooms or don’t run in the right circles to know who or what’s trendy. It engages a growing population who often see wine as stale and obsolete,” notes Smith.
Instead of charcuterie plates and jazz bands, you’ll find tacos and an eclectic, punk-disco playlist at Alt Wine. Since day one, its creators have aimed at making the affair “fun, down-to-earth, and not wine-y. In the words of one attendee, ‘I’ve been to my share of stuffy wine events with bad carpet and schmoozy vibes, and this was anything but that.’”
Smith believes consumers have grown weary of the status quo and are seeking something new and different. People are looking to “feel the thrill, excitement and wonder of curiosity and discovery” without any kind of hierarchy or pretense.
“For too long, the wine world has created experiences where one must conform to fit in. People no longer accept this. At best, they are bored, and, at worst, rejecting it altogether– while finding belonging and acceptance elsewhere,” observes Smith.
Read part two in next month’s issue.
Blood of Gods Annual Merrymaking
Saturday, July 19
$43.50−92.50
Marcus Whitman Hotel,
6 W. Rose St., Walla Walla
www.eventbrite.com/e/blood-of-gods-2025-annual-merrymaking-tickets-1232139425189
Alt Wine REMIXED
Saturday, July 12, 6–9:30 p.m.
$35 (includes welcome pour and tacos)
McMinnville's Art Alley (off N.E. Evans St.)
www.altwinefest.com
Neil Ferguson is a journalist, editor and marketer. Originally from the tiny state of Rhode Island and spending his formative years in Austin, Texas, he has long focused his writing around cultural pursuits, whether they be music, beer, wine or food. Neil previously worked as director of marketing for the Oregon Wine Board. He currently contributes regularly to Willamette Week, Sip Magazine, The New School, Glide Magazine and other outlets. Read more at www.neilferguson.work.
