Uprooting the System

Oregon's Black winemakers describe their struggles and challenges

By Aakanksha Agarwal

From overcoming entrenched obstacles to reshaping wine culture, Oregon’s Black winemakers are blending resilience with innovation, creating a more inclusive, diverse industry for future generations.

The wine industry, known for its traditions, craftsmanship and formidable barriers to entry, has long challenged aspiring Black winemakers. Oregon, celebrated for its world-class Pinot Noir, still carries the weight of a shrouded racial history, where policies of exclusion continue to affect today’s Black winemakers.

As we honor Black History Month, we must understand not simply the history of racial inequities but how they ripple through generations, leaving indelible scars on the wine industry and Oregon’s Black winemakers.

The hidden struggles of Black winemakers

Generational injustice around land ownership and access to capital impeded the experience of Black winemakers, from the earliest days of our state’s history to the present. Donna Stoney, founder of Stoney Wines, flatly states: “Generational inequities— especially around land ownership and access to money— have put Black winemakers at a huge disadvantage. For a long time, being shut out of land ownership meant not just losing out on wealth but also opportunities.”

Historically, Oregon’s exclusionary laws crippled the ability of Black people to own land or even live in the state, leaving a permanent mark on ownership today. The repercussions are particularly distressing in the wine industry, where property is more than a matter of wealth— it is one of survival. As Stoney observes, “In the wine world, owning land is critical because it’s your base; where everything starts.”

For those who didn’t inherit wealth or land, the playing field remained uneven. This exclusion is not a relic of the past— it affects Black winemakers like Stoney today. “My journey breaking into the wine industry was difficult without my own land and vines,” she says. “I wasn’t taken seriously as a winemaker because I didn’t have my own vineyard.”

What a painful reality: without access to capital, land and collaborations, visualize climbing a mountain with no summit in sight. But Stoney states, “When I do buy land, a portion of my vines will be dedicated to helping other Black winemakers break into the market.”

Stoney points to the years following the Civil War as particularly tragic: “There was a brief period where Black people owned land and built businesses, only to have it all taken from them. As a Black woman building my own business in the face of discrimination, my heart breaks when I think about the history of land and wealth lost due to discriminatory laws and outright theft.”

For today’s Black winemakers, the legacy of these actions is tangible. In Oregon, where 2022 census statistics reflect less than 3 percent of the population is Black or African American, property ownership or even recognition remains atypical.

For successful sommelier André Hueston Mack, founder of Maison Noir Wines, the burden of this economic history is pervasive. “Access to capital has always been a significant barrier in the wine industry,” Mack says. “There’s that old saying: How do you make a small fortune in the wine business? Start with a large one.”

Unlike those who inherit vineyards or benefit from family financial backing, Mack and his contemporaries often have to build their businesses with no safety net. Every decision is loaded with heightened stakes, each one shaped by the realities of inherent inequity.

Lack of generational wealth means creative business choices

Mack’s winemaking journey is one of creative ingenuity born of necessity. Instead of following the typical route of purchasing land or building a state-of-the-art winery, Mack used an alternative business model. “From the beginning, we had to find creative ways to sidestep large upfront investments, such as utilizing shared spaces instead of purchasing our own equipment. This approach allowed us to avoid the substantial capital commitment typically required for production,” he explains.

Mack’s approach centers around the entrepreneurial spirit many Black winemakers bring to the wine industry. His entire business was built on extended terms, flexible agreements and consignment— allowing him the necessary space to grow. This was possible because Mack relied on the relationships he developed working as a sommelier at two of Thomas Keller’s world-renowned restaurants: French Laundry in Napa and Per Se in New York City. With time, those connections became invaluable allies, with both practical help and moral support.

For Stoney, financial constraints shaped every aspect of her business, from the size of her operation to her marketing strategy. “Starting small was essential— I couldn’t buy expansive vineyards, so I had to be strategic,” she notes. Without the cushion of generational wealth, every dollar spent becomes a calculated risk, and each decision carries long-term consequences.

Jarod Sleet, another rising Black voice in Oregon wine, also found creative ways to navigate financial pressures. “I didn’t start my own winery or wine brand...with student loans and bills, it didn’t seem feasible,” he admits. But rather than abandoning his winemaking aspirations, Sleet found a home at ROCO, a winery that allowed him to work with talented winemakers and craft wines reflecting his unique stylistic vision.

Leveraging influence to form a more inclusive wine industry

For sports superstars-turned-vintners, CJ McCollum, Channing Frye and Sidney Rice, removing obstacles in the winemaking world is a deeply personal mission. These athletes use their influence and resources to reshape the wine industry, making it more inclusive and accessible.

For McCollum, owner of McCollum Heritage 91, the motivation is clear: winemaking involves more than just producing wine; it’s about shifting an industry long inaccessible to many. Reflecting on his NBA career, McCollum says, “I’m in a unique position because it provided me with means others don’t have.” Yet, he also acknowledges the responsibility connected with those resources. McCollum has made his mission establishing opportunities for other BIPOC professionals, partnering with organizations like The Roots Fund and Our Legacy Harvested, both focused on mentorship and financial support for underrepresented wine professionals.

Frye, owner and founder of Chosen Family Wines, shares a similar vision, blending his personal experiences with his passion for wine. “I’ve noticed how people of color, especially Black people, feel like wine isn’t their thing,” Frye says. “But wine is every part of our ‘thing.’” His goal extends beyond making wine— it’s about redefining wine culture to be more inclusive. Frye points to the cultural disconnect between Black communities and the wine world, emphasizing how bridging this gap benefits the industry. “Bringing new perspectives to wine makes it better,” Frye says. He recounts an experience in Alabama where he paired Chardonnay with pork chops and Syrah with short ribs. “That’s what makes it so special— to connect people to wine in a way that resonates with their culture.”

However, Frye also acknowledges the challenges of navigating an industry where assumptions about race and expertise can undermine his work. “When you’re an athlete or a person of color entering an industry where the faces don’t look like you, there’s always a question of, ‘Does he really know what he’s doing?’” Frye explains. “When you’re not given the benefit of the doubt, you have to work harder to prove yourself.”

Rice, co-owner of Dossier Wine Collective, says, “You may never know what you can accomplish until you see someone who looks like you doing it. There just aren’t many Black winemakers, or people of color who own these types of businesses. But the more we show up, the more others will see they can do it too.

Visibility is everything.” Rice is also eager to highlight the importance of community in the winemaking process. “Wine is a lifelong learning process, and it’s about sharing that passion with your community,” he says.

Representation and mentorship: amplifying underrepresented voices

For Mack, visibility produces both privilege and pressure. He explains how a lack of representation frequently ends in minimal participation from young people of color; many aren’t even aware of professional wine opportunities.

“Throughout my career, traveling across the United States and around the world, people of color are both shocked and intrigued to see someone like me in this position— it’s still rare. When I first started, very few people looked like me. And, this meant there were almost no resources or networks for guidance,” he explains.

Sleet’s journey at ROCO Winery illustrates the shifting landscape for BIPOC professionals in the wine industry. Nevertheless, he notes that for many Black winemakers, success is not just about securing resources but finding a community that has historically excluded them. He underscores the importance of networking and shared objectives. “Networking opportunities are a few clicks away,” he says. Through social media, Sleet is part of several groups recounting stories of minority groups within the food and beverage industry.

These connections supply more than just visibility: they offer mentorship and support systems not often found through traditional winemaking channels. Sleet highlights one specific group, Uncorked & Cultured, that introduced him to valuable resources like the Diversity in Wine Leadership Forum, Hispanics in Wine, The Hue Society, and others, all focused on connecting and uplifting diverse individuals in the wine world.

Storytelling as a force for change

Storytelling, both as a tool for representation and mechanism for change, remains central to the journeys of many Black winemakers.

Stoney views stories as essential to broadening awareness about the challenges faced by Black winemakers. “We need to highlight the grit and resilience that got us here,” she asserts. Stoney finds these narratives are more than simply promotional tools; they are conduits for truth, revealing the sacrifices, struggles and strength that define journeys.

McCollum reiterates the power of storytelling, saying, “Authentic stories about the challenges and successes around being BIPOC winemakers and industry professionals foster understanding and inspire action.” In an industry that often romanticizes winemaking, these narratives add a counterpoint, creating awareness and change in funding, land access and mentorship opportunities.

For Mack, relating the “raw and often unglamorous realities” of winemaking process creates transparency. “By sharing both the highs and lows, we convey the struggles, sacrifices and resilience that define our paths,” he says.

Building the future

The path to success in winemaking has rarely been easy, but Black winemakers are beginning to shape a new legacy— one that promises greater equity and opportunity. As Stoney says, “To me, legacy is about creating a path where others can walk more freely than I did. For that to happen, the industry has to step up with real change— investing in education, creating access to capital and making diversity a priority. It’s about ensuring that our contributions are visible, valued and lasting.”

For Sleet, legacy includes community and connection. As a Black man in the LGBTQ+ community, he strives to create a lasting impact through his wines while honoring those before him, like Rollin Soles, whose work he admires.

“I hope through visibility and representation, the next generation of Black winemakers have access to more resources than I did. I hope they enter more diverse wine spaces,” says Sleet.

Finally, organizations like Wine Unify, the Association of African American Vintners, The Roots Fund and Our Legacy Harvested are critical in diversifying talent. These programs offer scholarships, mentorship and support for aspiring BIPOC winemakers who might otherwise be excluded. They are essential for access to financial assistance and a supportive community for original voices in wine.

Now it falls to the entire wine industry to recognize the importance of diversity and pledge to making meaningful change. As Sleet points out, “Oregon isn’t very diverse, and I believe that’s due to its complicated history with race.” This is a powerful reminder that diversity demands intentional effort. Oregon, in particular, has a legacy that compels serious reflection and action to create a truly inclusive environment.

As Frye sums it up: “Wine should be for everyone. We’re all in this together.”

Aakanksha Agarwal is a wine, travel and lifestyle writer from India. Formerly a Bollywood stylist, she now resides in the U.S., embracing writing full-time while juggling family life and indulging in her passions for cuisine, literature and wanderlust.