That's Somm Story

Learn how four Oregon sommeliers discovered wine

By Jessica Zimmer

One shared characteristic among Oregon sommeliers is their passion for reading wine books and self-education. Many pursue a deeper understanding of wine long before considering certification.

One such sommelier is Larry Stone, a Master Sommelier and the founder of Lingua Franca Wines in Salem. Stone started tasting wine at age seven and was making a Riesling-like wine from apple juice by 13.

“Then came years of reading wine books and pairing wines with my mother’s amazing French cooking. At a certain point, after teaching comparative literature for public universities I shifted to working as a sommelier in 1980 at Red Cabbage, a Seattle fine dining establishment,” says Stone.

“In the past, my biggest hurdles were mental ones and getting prepared to take exams. What really helped me was cooking gourmet food at home and pairing it with Napa wines, which were cheap at the time, as well as Italian and regional Burgundies. I also had a personal history of picking fruit in Washington’s Yakima Valley. This gave me a background on how the Oregon wine industry began developing,” says Stone.

Stone became well-versed as a sommelier through the 1980s by working at different locations for Ritz Carlton and Four Seasons hotels. Along the way, he participated in many blind tastings.

“This helped me learn a lot more than when I tasted wines I already knew,” says Stone.

Stone’s recommended fall pairing is either a Lingua Franca or Beaux Frères Pinot Noir with Lasagne alla Besciamella in the Rosmarino Osteria style. This lasagne is a rich dish distinct from the typical American version. Made with soffritto (diced celery, carrot and onion), browned veal or beef and pork, plus milk, white wine and chopped tomatoes.

“Veal, nutmeg and wine with the creamy Béchamel sauce are an elegant accompaniment to a medium to fuller-bodied Pinot Noir. The reduced white wine in the sugo adds a beautiful structure to the sauce. This matches a red wine well, one with some freshness, such as a Willamette Valley Pinot Noir,” said Stone.

From tea to music, and then wine

An early interest in tea led to a career in wine for David Rottenberg, now a sommelier for Andina, a Peruvian fine dining restaurant in Portland. By the time Rottenberg turned 18, he was already reading wine books.

“I lived briefly in Oregon while working for a modeling agency here after graduating from high school. After returning to Durango, Colorado, I started barbacking at a historic hotel called The Strater. I worked there because my brother played ragtime piano in the bar,” says Rottenberg.

Rottenberg later returned to Portland to continue modeling. Soon he started on the dinner and bar team at a fine dining tearoom and hotel. “The business introduced an extensive wine menu but didn’t train anyone. They gave us one wine book to read. That led to me reading many more books and taking the Court of Master’s sommelier test,” says Rottenberg.

After passing the introductory exam, a friend who worked as a baker for Andina encouraged him to apply as a sommelier at the restaurant. “As I’ve continued developing as a sommelier, I’ve joined blind tasting groups. I also visit Oregon wineries every chance I get, focusing on tasting wines from grapes you wouldn’t think would grow here, like Tannat,” says Rottenberg.

Rottenberg’s recommended fall pairing is the White Walnut Estate South Blocks Pinot Noir with a savory wild mushroom dish, like a stirfry with fresh thyme and butter. “The bold, charcoal smokiness of the mushrooms goes well with the savory notes of the Pinot Noir,” says Rottenberg.

A family history in restaurants

Miguel Marquez gradually developed an interest in wine after becoming skilled in restaurant work. Since 1964, his family has owned a traditional Mexican restaurant called Mi Cachito in Mexico City.

Marquez, who immigrated to the U.S. after college, now works as the beverage director for República & Co., a hospitality group encompassing three restaurants in Portland.

“I’m a third-generation restaurateur who started in the business at age 12. Growing up, I learned how to host, produce recipes, source products as well as count and manage money,” said Marquez. He began with the misleading stereotype that “beer is for everyone and wine is for sophisticated people. I lost that belief while studying restaurant management in Mexico. I started working in Aspen, then Texas, eventually moving to Oregon in 2017,” says Marquez.

He found it hard to learn about local wine because the minimum wage in Portland is $15.95 per hour, whereas a bottle of local wine averages $35. “I was still getting around by bicycle to make it work. I dug deep into wine books and joined tasting groups to become proficient. After six years of self-education, I got my sommelier and WSET 3 certification. After a dozen years of formal training, I am now both an advanced sommelier and WSET diploma candidate,” says Marquez.

Marquez recommends a fall pairing of orzo pasta with celeriac, Dungeness crab, butter and lobster mushrooms with a Hope Well Wine Riesling. Alternatively, he suggests lamb shanks braised in tomato sauce, garlic, onion, celeriac, morel and epazote (an herb used in Southern Mexico and Central America) with a Leah Jørgensen Cellars Cabernet Franc.

Giving sommeliers direction

As wine director for The Allison Inn & Spa in Newberg, Elaine Heide oversees three sommeliers, Ryan Clifford, Tim Holst and Jake Jendusa. The three work at JORY, the inn’s signature restaurant.

When searching for a sommelier, Heide looks for a combination of wine knowledge and hospitality skills.

“A good candidate must speak about wine in a way that’s approachable and inclusive. They should convey knowledge and excitement. They should also be adept at asking questions and conversing about wine,” says Heide.

Heide believes the main objectives of the role incorporate sales, service and support. These priorities shift repeatedly throughout an evening. “Wine service techniques can be taught and practiced, but the way someone communicates about wine must be a skill brought to the job on day-one. This comes naturally to some and requires work and self-awareness with others,” says Heide.

Heide’s philosophy on studying and tasting wine is “the more you learn, the less you know. In other words, I hope that my team remains endlessly curious about wine and always open to evolving their personal understanding of the industry and product. I’m teaching them to be inquisitive and open-minded, yet to apply analytical thought to everything they learn,” says Heide.

She adds how working as a sommelier in the heart of the Willamette Valley demands a fundamental understanding of knowing local wines, producers and vineyards. “To grow as a sommelier requires building onto this foundation with knowledge of other wine regions. One goal is to better understand why we’re incredibly lucky to work with Oregon wines. Another is to be able to place Oregon wines in a global context when speaking to guests who might have more familiarity with wines from elsewhere,” says Heide.

Heide’s recommended fall pairing is wild-caught salmon with blueberry wine made by Kelley Fox of Kelley Fox Wines and Jim Anderson of Patricia Green Cellars. “It has an intense aroma of ripe berries with the dryness, body and flavors of a delicate red wine. The pairing is both satisfying and captivating,” says Heide.

Heide also enjoys making roast chicken with sea salt, olive oil and herbs de Provence paired with Big Table Farm’s The Elusive Queen Chardonnay. “While the bird is roasting, I’ll drink sparkling wine and snack on cheese. CHO Wines Blanc de Noirs with Briar Rose Creamery’s Butterbloom cows’ milk cheese is a particularly delicious combination,” says Heide.

Jessica Zimmer is a news reporter, attorney, and educator based in northern California. She has worked in journalism for over 20 years. She covers a wide variety of industries, including alcoholic beverage production, transportation, law and the arts.