Terroir on Your Table

Oregon winemakers and chefs celebrate summer bounty

By Aakanksha Agarwal

In the world of gastronomy, there’s one enduring truth— what grows together goes together. Picture a warm summer afternoon… the air is alive with aromas of freshly cut hay, wildflowers and the hint of sweet, ripe berries carried on a gentle breeze. Summers in Oregon constitute a feast for the senses. Juicy strawberries, plump blueberries, sun-ripened tomatoes, crisp snow peas and fragrant herbs flourish under the warm sun. Residents know the true magic lies in pairing this seasonal bounty with our region’s equally sensational wines.

“The connection between Oregon’s agricultural practices and our exceptional wines and seasonal foods is profound,” reflects Mimi Casteel. This second-generation vineyard manager, a pioneer in regenerative viticulture, owns Hope Well Wine and Vineyard, in Sheridan. “No culinary experience can match food in its freshest state, grown from native, healthy soil, enhanced by regional wines. The greatest nuance of flavors, a hallmark of local produce and meat, rapidly diminishes with time (transit, storage, handling). Foods grown nearby will always be more flavorful and nutrient-dense than those from farther away.”

This philosophy reigns in charming Dundee, in the Willamette Valley, marked by a mosaic of vineyards and farms. Red Hills Market, a popular local haunt, is filled with aromas of wood-fired pizza topped with heirloom tomatoes, fresh basil and creamy mozzarella— all ingredients from neighboring farms. Pair it with a glass of The Eyrie Vineyards Pinot Gris, and you’ve got a match made in heaven. The wine’s bright notes of green apple and citrus complement the sweetness of the basil and creaminess of the mozzarella, creating a meal that captures summer. Here, the mantra “what grows together, goes together” isn’t merely a saying but an experience.

Why do local food and wine pairings work so well? Because the same terroir nurturing the grapes also enriches the produce. The brisk mornings and warm, sunny afternoons create perfect conditions for both vineyards and vegetable gardens. When you bite into a juicy, sun-warmed peach and then sip a crisp Pinot Gris, you’re not just tasting the season— but also the place. As Casteel emphasizes, “There is no healthier, more humane, authentic or tangible way to participate as a concerned citizen than by investing in a regional food economy.

“For me, pairings represent a chance to complement via juxtaposition,” notes Casteel. “We have so many wonderful opportunities right now. From simple bitter greens like mizuna and arugula with off-dry whites or rosé, fried artichokes with a crisp, dry, mouthwatering chardonnay, or fresh, creamy green fava beans with bacon and Pinot, you can’t beat the bounty of Oregon summer.”

About an hour’s drive away, in Sherwood, the season’s abundance becomes an Italian, hands-on flavor fest at Alloro Vineyards. In the winery’s boutique kitchen, meals are elevated in a way that would make the most demanding nonna proud. Chef Chris Smith explains his culinary approach: “My goal when crafting the culinary offerings is to create a regionally-inspired menu rooted in Italian tradition. We are influenced by David, our proprietor’s, heritage and produce from his garden and farm. Anchored by exceptional hospitality, our dishes provide a glimpse into his childhood.”

One option, Pranzo, is named after the classic midday meal in Italian culture. Smith creates specialty sandwiches and salads like an earthy, warm beet salad with an Oregon Bay shrimp melt, jazzed up with local herbs and berries— paired smoothly with estate wines. And if you’re ready for a truly epic gourmet experience, join the Cinque Cose. Each month Smith, with in-house sommelier, Michael Bockstahler, crafts a five-course presentation blending Italian flair with Oregon’s freshest ingredients and exclusive wine pairings.

The harmony between Oregon’s wines and its produce is intentional. The state’s vintners remain as attuned to the land as farmers. They believe great wine begins in the vineyard, where the interplay of soil, climate and grape variety forms the very essence of the wine. “Our farms and vineyards are laced together by networks of trees and native vegetation, augmenting the health and vigor of our produce and wines,” explains Casteel. “We are blessed with incredible topography and a climate filled with powerful, long solar days and crispy cool nights. This contrast of our diurnal shift builds the sweetest fruit. Chilly nights preserve the freshness and acidity, leading to explosive peak flavors.”

Summer bounty is incomplete without mentioning the Hood River Valley. Here, the 35-mile-long “fruit loop” winds through orchards, vineyards and quaint towns. One vital stop on this quintessential summer experience is Grateful Vineyards— a masterclass in pairing fresh, local flavors with exceptional wine. Imagine sitting in the tasting room with a glass of crisp, unoaked Chardonnay. The windows frame an orchard heavy with summer pears. Enjoy salad made from those very pears, complemented by candied hazelnuts, gorgonzola, and a house-made balsamic vinaigrette. The wine’s bright acidity and subtle fruit notes perfectly enhance such complex flavors.

Smith recommends, “I enjoy shopping the farmers markets— every town has one and they’re usually on different days, offering unique experiences and selections every day of the week. Since we live in the heart of an agricultural area, I frequently indulge in the various u-pick programs at local farms. They’re a great family-friendly diversion that yields some of the best fresh produce around. Finally, the Northwest is renowned for wild mushrooms— taking a hike into the forests to forage or joining a guided truffle tour should be on everyone’s list. Summer mushrooms to look out for include hen-of-the-wood, porcinis, lobsters and rainbow chanterelles.”

For those hoping to recreate this magic at home, here are four recipes inspired by several kitchens from various regions.

Summer Tomato Salad 

Alloro Vineyards (Willamette Valley)
Wine pairing: Alloro Vineyard Brut Rosé

Ingredients:
• 2 lbs. fresh heirloom tomatoes, cut into large chunks or slices
• ½ cup blackberries
• 8 slices fresh prosciutto
• ½ cup feta cheese
• 1 Tbsp. holy basil, cut chiffonade (if you can’t find holy basil (Tulsi), a combination of regular basil and mint is similar)
• ½ tsp. Urfa Biber (a variety of dried Turkish chili)
• 1 Tbsp. verjus (or a mild vinegar)
• 1 Tbsp. extra virgin olive oil
• Salt to taste

Instructions:
1. Mix together the tomatoes, blackberries, herbs, spices, oil and verjus in a bowl and lightly toss.
2. Season to taste and let stand 5 minutes.
3. Sprinkle feta cheese liberally over the tomato mixture, garnish with fresh herbs (chiffonade basil or edible flowers) and liberally drizzle with olive oil.
4. Divide the prosciutto between each plate to finish the dish.
Pro tip: Save all the liquid “marinade” from the tomatoes and make Bloody Marys the next day.

Seafood & White Bean Stew 

Abacela Winery (Umpqua Valley)
Wine pairing: Abacela 2023 Albariño

Ingredients:
• ½ lb. white fish (e.g., cod), diced
• ½ lb. shrimp
• 2 cups dry white beans
• 1 quart fish stock
• 1 bunch Swiss chard, chopped
• 1 tsp. chopped garlic
• ½ yellow onion, diced
• 1 tomato, diced
• 1 Tbsp. fresh thyme, chopped
• 1 Tbsp. fresh parsley, chopped
• ½ cup bacon, diced
• Salt & pepper to taste
• 1 quart water
• 3 Tbsp. butter
• Olive oil
• Zest of one lemon

Instructions:
1. Cook beans: Sauté garlic and onion in olive oil in a large pot until translucent. Add white beans, fish stock and water. Bring to a boil; simmer 45 minutes, until beans are tender. Drain beans and reserve stock.
2. Cook seafood: Sauté bacon in a large skillet until fully cooked. Add shrimp and fish, sauté for about 8 minutes.
3. Combine and finish: Add tomato, chard, white beans and 1 cup reserved stock to the skillet. Sauté until stock is almost reduced. Add salt, pepper, thyme, parsley and butter. Sauté until butter melts.
4. Serve in a large bowl, garnished with lemon zest.

Spring Pea Farinata with Goat Cheese

Cowhorn Winery (Jacksonville)
Wine pairing: Cowhorn 2022 Spiral (blend of Viognier, Marsanne and Roussanne)

Ingredients:
• ½ cup fresh or frozen English peas
• 1/3 lb. mild Italian sausage
• 1 cup chickpea flour
• 1 cup water
• ½ cup extra virgin olive oil (divided)
• 1 tsp. salt
• 1/3 cup thinly sliced leeks (white or light green parts only)
• 1 Tbsp. finely chopped rosemary
• 1 cup crumbled goat cheese
• 2 cups pea shoots or baby arugula (divided)
• ¼ cup fresh mint leaves
• 1 small clove garlic, minced
• 1 lemon, cut into wedges
• Flaky sea salt

Instructions:
1. Prepare pea puree: Boil peas 2 minutes, drain and rinse. Blend until smooth with 1 cup pea shoots, mint, half the goat cheese, garlic and ¼ cup olive oil. Season with salt.
2. Cook sausage: Sauté sausage in 1 Tbsp. olive oil until cooked through. Drain on paper towels.
3. Make farinata batter: Whisk chickpea flour, water, 1 Tbsp. olive oil and salt until smooth.
4. Cook farinata: Preheat oven to 500°F. Heat ¼ cup olive oil in a 10-inch cast iron pan. Pour in batter, top with sausage, leeks, remaining goat cheese and rosemary. Bake for 10 minutes.
5. Cut farinata into 6 triangles. Top each with pea puree and dressed pea shoots. Serve with lemon wedges and sea salt.

Peach Burrata Salad

Riverside Restaurant (Hood River)
Wine pairing: Idiot’s Grace Winery 2022 Chenin Blanc

Ingredients:
• 1 ripe local organic peach
• 1 large heirloom tomato + 6-8
assorted cherry tomatoes
• 8-10 fresh basil leaves
• 2 balls of fresh burrata cheese
• Peach-infused white balsamic vinegar (or a high-quality white balsamic or champagne vinegar)
• High-quality extra virgin olive oil

Instructions:
1. Cut the heirloom tomato into wedges and arrange on ½ of the plate; sprinkle with salt.
2. Slice the peach in half, remove the pit, and slice into similar-sized wedges.
3. Cut cherry tomatoes in half and divide between the 2 plates, filling in any spaces.
4. Cut burrata down the center, but not all the way through, and gently pull apart. Place opposite the tomatoes and peaches.
5. Drizzle the peach vinegar generously over the tomatoes and peaches.
6. Drizzle the olive oil generously over the tomatoes, peaches and burrata.
7. Sprinkle the burrata with salt.
8. Arrange whole basil leaves over peaches and tomatoes.

Aakanksha Agarwal is a wine, travel and lifestyle writer from India. Formerly a Bollywood stylist, she now resides in the U.S., embracing writing full-time while juggling family life and indulging in her passions for cuisine, literature and wanderlust.