Take a Culinary Voyage

New Carlton restaurant influenced by globe-trotting persona

By Neil Ferguson

Raise your glass because the Willamette Valley has a new destination restaurant. Originally part of McMinnville’s innovative food court, Mac Market, Hayward rapidly became a darling of critics, foodies and wine geeks alike. Helmed by chef Kari Shaughnessy, it had a modest start. The magic lies in Shaughnessy and her team’s ability to transform ingredients sourced from nearby farms and farmers’ markets into mind-blowingly flavorful dishes influenced by Japan, Italy and the Mediterranean, among other parts of the world.

Hayward’s ever-changing menu even garnered it a James Beard nomination in 2024 and inclusion in USA Today’s 25 Best New Restaurants this year. With a windfall of success came the realization they had outgrown Mac Market. This summer, Hayward graduated to a proper restaurant space once occupied by Earth & Sea. Its moment as one of Oregon’s finest restaurants and a true wine country dining destination has arrived.

For Shaughnessy, the new Carlton space allows her team to unite her culinary vision and identity. Her New England upbringing gave rise to a successful career as a baker and chef in the Bay Area, and the realization her calling lay in the heart of the Willamette Valley.

“Hayward is my middle name, along with being my grandmother’s maiden name. Sadly, she died as we were planning the restaurant. She was a very strong-willed, independent woman who inspired me to create this globe-trotting, free-spirited fictional character,” she recalls.

That rush of creativity moved Shaughnessy to combine her almost religious devotion to local ingredients, fermentation and seasoning with the like-minded philosophy of her chef de cuisine Søren Kalbfleisch. Together with sous chef Jon Inonueri, manager Jules Bandy and wine director Emily Howard, the establishment feels strikingly original yet familiar, in an almost nostalgic way.

“I appreciate how Søren has run the front of house, managed a bar and worked in a kitchen. He currently lives on a farm in Yamhill and raises sheep… completely fitting the vibe of this restaurant. We both sought a space with the freedom to cook whatever we want without limitations– besides sourcing our ingredients,” explains Shaughnessy.

Hayward’s collaborative nature in the kitchen sets it apart from other restaurants. In an industry troubled by rapid employee turnover and high burnout rates, this approach empowers team members and creates a nimbler environment for experimentation.

“Our team does everything. For example, our sous chef is mixing the bread in between folds. He's butchering a fish while also making meringue. As someone who likes to learn, I strive to cultivate an environment where others can do so too,” describes Shaughnessy.

The restaurant was designed with help from sustainably-minded woodworker Danridge Geiger, recognized for his other projects: Eem, Langbaan and Paadee. The result balances art deco-like sophistication with warm tones and cozy wood paneling. It feels like the living room of a world traveler with impeccable taste– fitting for the fictional Hayward persona.

“Our team has always considered her a very well-traveled person, and our food reflects that worldliness. We’re not limited to a particular region or style; our menu changes all the time, representing our personal lives. We wanted the space to feel that way as well,” notes Shaughnessy.

Shaughnessy’s New England roots and formative years working at Melissa Perello’s Michelin-starred Frances in San Francisco and Marla Bakery in Sonoma County shaped her style. The result is an innovative menu, from fermented zucchini bread inspired by childhood summers with her grandparents in Cape Cod to a passion for baking cookies and showcasing seasonal vegetables in seemingly simple yet deliciously complex preparations. Even dishes like chewy fermented sourdough focaccia, rotating larder vegetables and kale salad burst with radiant colors and flavors.

Shaughnessy reflects on her foundational experiences with fondness.

“I credit Melissa Perello with teaching me how to season food and embrace seasonality throughout the year. She is California cooking to a tee. Coming from Massachusetts, I learned California cuisine while working for her. It was such a great experience. I had never seen a persimmon and didn't know what a pluot was.”

While working at Sons & Daughters in San Francisco, Shaughnessy began incorporating international influences into her food, with help from chef Ryan Raaka.
“He excelled at blurring the lines between cuisines. He might start a dish with a traditional French technique, but then season it with Japanese ingredients, or draw on something from his childhood growing up in Sonoma that felt very California. He skillfully joined diverse foods into a single dish that made so much sense. For me, that was huge,” she recalls.

A chef friend recommended Shaughnessy visit Oregon’s wine country to check out McMinnville. There, she stumbled on the farm-to-table restaurant Thistle (owned by her wine director Emily at the time), an experience that proved inspirational, prompting her to leave the Bay Area in 2020.
“I was like, okay, if that can exist in this small town, then I can probably do something there too.”

Hayward’s commitment to sustainability, where every ingredient is maximized in an effort to prevent food waste, resonates in a community known for its land stewardship and rigorous grape growing standards.

“The core of what we do revolves around our sourcing. By working with small local farms, and creating menus based on what’s available, we reduce our food waste. It’s part of our efforts with Zero FoodPrint,” states Shaughnessy.

Take corn, for example. A summer visit found a corn-infused margarita on the bar menu. The leftover corn pulp used for juicing was steeped into cream to make both dessert and savory corn dishes. Diners experience a wonderfully seasonal culinary cohesion while nothing goes to waste.

“Our cooking is a reflection of Søren and me. We’re influenced by our travels or what we feel like eating, often refining meals over time.”

Hayward’s wine list, filled with surprises, is equally fun. Recognizing many guests may have spent their day sampling Oregon Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, unique wine regions are featured, including a wide range of European wines. Shaughnessy admits to pushing wines from the country of Georgia. She enjoys pairing dry, crisp Riesling with spicy food and wanted a selection her industry friends can geek out to while also showcasing Oregon.

“This restaurant is for locals and tourists alike. We cover the world with our limited wine list, while ensuring our region is represented, usually by small producers who might lack a tasting room,” notes Shaughnessy.

While nearby establishments have closed or revamped their concepts, Hayward quietly excels– striking a balance between fine dining and approachability. You can order an entrée and some small plates without spending a fortune, get extravagant with the Kickback chef’s choice menu or relax at the bar for a snack and a cocktail. From low-alcohol beverages to produce-centric dishes guaranteed to satisfy the fussiest of vegans, Hayward strives to be inclusive while still blowing away everyone’s palate with flavor.

“There's a bit of discovery right now, especially for tourists. Everyone is already familiar with Sonoma and Napa so they feel like they're finding something new here. People come and say, ‘oh my gosh, I had no idea.’ That is such a unique feeling. Here, every tourist can feel like a local in a way you don’t get in Napa anymore,” observes Shaughnessy.

As Portland and the Willamette Valley regain their tourism footing, places like Hayward are grabbing the headlines and attracting visitors.

Hayward
209 N. Kutch St., Carlton
Wed. - Sat. 4:30 - 9 p.m.
(503) 687-3605
www.haywardrestaurant.com

Neil Ferguson is a journalist, editor and marketer. Originally from the tiny state of Rhode Island and spending his formative years in Austin, Texas, he has long focused his writing around cultural pursuits, whether they be music, beer, wine or food. Neil previously worked as director of marketing for the Oregon Wine Board. He currently contributes regularly to Willamette Week, Sip Magazine, The New School, Glide Magazine and other outlets. Read more at www.neilferguson.work.