Sturgeon Osso Buco
Recipe provided by chef Carl Krause of Wilder Cooking
Ingredients
4 (6–8 ounce) sturgeon steaks
All-purpose flour, for dredging
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1/2 cup diced onion
1/2 cup diced carrot
1/2 cup diced celery
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 anchovy fillet, mashed (optional, for depth of flavor)
1 tablespoon tomato paste
1/2 cup dry white or red wine
1 cup fish or vegetable stock
1 1/2 cups chopped tomatoes (canned or fresh)
1 bay leaf
1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
For the gremolata:
1/2 cup finely chopped fresh Italian parsley
1 1/2 tablespoons lemon zest
3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 teaspoon olive oil
Instructions
Prep the fish: Pat the sturgeon steaks dry with paper towels and season generously with salt and pepper. Lightly dredge each steak in flour, shaking off any excess.
Sauté the vegetables: In a Dutch oven or a heavy, oven-safe pot, heat 1 tablespoon of olive oil and the butter over medium-high heat. Add the onion, carrot, celery, and mashed anchovy (if using). Sauté for 8–10 minutes, until the vegetables are soft.
Create the sauce base: Add the minced garlic and tomato paste to the pot. Stir and cook for another minute until fragrant.
Deglaze the pot: Pour in the wine to deglaze the pan, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom. Let the wine reduce by about half.
Simmer the sauce: Add the stock, chopped tomatoes, bay leaf and fresh thyme. Bring the sauce to a gentle simmer. Taste and season with additional salt and pepper as needed.
Sear the sturgeon: While the sauce simmers, heat the remaining tablespoon of olive oil in a separate skillet over high heat. Sear the sturgeon steaks for 2–3 minutes per side, just until they are golden brown. Do not cook them all the way through.
Braise the fish: Carefully transfer the seared sturgeon steaks into the pot with the simmering sauce. The sauce should mostly cover the fish.
Bake: Place the pot, uncovered, in a 300°F oven for 12–15 minutes, or until the sturgeon is opaque and barely cooked through.
Make the gremolata: While the fish bakes, combine all gremolata ingredients in a small bowl.
Serve:
Carefully remove the sturgeon steaks from the pot and place them on plates. Top with the braised vegetable and tomato sauce. Finish with a sprinkle of fresh gremolata and serve immediately.
Chef Carl Krause
Wilder Cooking
I believe food should tell the story of where it’s made. I source locally whenever possible– produce, meat, fish– and avoid menu offerings I can’t make from scratch. My culinary foundation was built at the Culinary Institute of America in New York, where I learned the value of precision and patience. Those principles guide my work every day and keep cooking exciting.
My food is like edible jazz: structure meets improvisation. I start with classical technique, then let the ingredients riff. These sturgeon dishes reflect that philosophy– familiar forms with local personality, rooted in the Rogue Valley's bounty but played with unexpected notes.
Suggested wine pairings with Oregon Royal Sturgeon Company white sturgeon
Analemma 2023 Mosier Hills Trousseau has delicate expressions of ripe red fruit, pomegranate and soft orange with a lick of wet stone.
Bayer Family Estate Winery 2019 Rosé Frizzante presents soft bubbles of watermelon, rose, cherry with hints of pomegranate and violet. A must for holidays.
Hundred Suns Winery 2024 Old Eight Cut Chardonnay is dry-farmed, lightly oaked and rooted in volcanic soil. Intensely vibrant fruit flavors.
Liska Wine 2024 Heceta White is a blend of aromatic whites with just enough ocean salinity to wet your palate for what’s to come next.
Sound & Vision Wine Co. Zinfandel 2023 Faatoaga Vineyard is light-bodied, with jammy red berries and savory, peppery notes.
The Punch House 2024 Sauvignon Blanc “Gold” was aged sur lie for a creamy texture reminiscent of a golden meadow of flowers.
Walter Scott Wines 2024 La Combe Verte Pinot Noir beckons with florals and ripe red fruit, balanced by graceful woodsiness.
