Scoring Big
Learn how Oregon wines stack up globally
By Michele Francisco
Scores sell wine. Viewed by some as a necessary evil, undoubtedly, they influence buyers. Lists accomplish the same. Even this magazine includes a monthly ranking– our Cellar Selects. Both sellers and consumers have told me it indeed creates wine sales.
However, ratings achieve more, if you know how to read them. Master of Wine and Limited Addition Wines' winemaker Bree Stock says, “Oregon consistently has five or more wines on Wine Spectator’s Top 100 wines list. We continue to rank in the top 10 for wines awarded 90+ point scores– more than entire countries. That’s no small feat for a tiny region in the global wine market.”
Oregon excels
Statistics from the Oregon Wine Board reveal a compelling story. The number of Oregon vineyards more than doubled between 2013-2023, yet 70 percent of our wineries produce fewer than 5,000 cases annually. Winemakers continue to receive accolades for their diverse bottlings. In fact, although Oregon produces only 2 percent of the global wine production wine, it earned 7 percent of Wine Spectator and 5 percent Wine Enthusiast’s Top 100 lists in 2023.
Oregon’s awards extend beyond one major wine publication. Wine Enthusiast is equally captivated with Oregon wine. Writer-at-large Michael Alberty reviews wines from Oregon, Washington, Alaska, North and South Dakota, Hawaii, Idaho, Iowa, Minnesota, Montana, Wisconsin, Wyoming and Canada. Sampling roughly 3,000 bottles yearly, Alberty estimates 60 percent (approximately 1800) are submissions from our state. Few people taste that much Oregon wine. (By comparison, I have sampled nearly 1000 Oregon wines this year.)
Says Alberty, “It’s almost ridiculous how many well-made Oregon wines I encounter these days. Rarely do I find something showing a flaw or lacking quality to the point where I want to pour it down the drain.” He also appreciates how Oregon enthusiastically experiments with a wider range of grapes. “There's also so much diversity now in terms of grape varieties here. Oregon really has something for just about anyone's interests,” he adds.
Pinot Noir packs a punch
Oregon established a reputation for Pinot Noir; it’s no surprise publications have taken notice. Samantha Cole-Johnson, senior U.S. editor at JancisRobinson.com, produced by UK-based wine author and critic Jancis Robinson, believes “when you specialize in a subject you tend to get very good at it. The Willamette Valley has focused on Pinot Noir to the tune of nearly 70 percent of planted acreage. To give you an idea of how crazy that is, Burgundy is about one-third planted to Pinot Noir. And excepting Burgundy– with its centuries of experience– I don't know another place in the world that has invested the same amount of time, energy and interest into Pinot Noir. Of course, winemakers here produce world-class Pinot Noir– there have been nearly 60 years of pure collaborative effort behind it.”
According to Wine Enthusiast, “3,800 of the 22,000 total wines reviewed by the magazine over the past year were designated as Best Buys, with 100 deemed to be the ‘best of the best.’” Ranking number one on its 2024 Top 100 Best Buys list, King Estate Winery’s 2022 Inscription Pinot Noir (90 points) characterizes our state’s collective commitment to excellence. Producing wine in Oregon is expensive. Land, labor and fickle grapes increase costs, resulting in higher-than-average wine prices. Yet, King Estate has found the means to craft an excellent $20 Pinot, a noteworthy accomplishment.
Brent Stone, co-CEO and winemaker at King Estate, explains production methods used at the winery. “While we are one of the state’s larger producers, we’re built like a small winery in terms of fruit receiving and fermenter sizes. This is advantageous when it comes to making high quality wine at scale, allowing us to dedicate smaller tanks to individual blocks or vineyards. We can then treat them as stand-alone wines. Some end up in smaller, 100-case winery exclusives, while others go into larger wholesale programs.”
Stone continues, “By managing batches similarly, everything tends to benefit from the approach. Our highest price point wines improve because we have a greater selection from which to choose. And, more accessibly-priced wines get better because we're working with vineyards and fermentation regimens we wouldn't consider if we were focused solely on making a lower-priced wine. Regardless of the approach, we firmly believe in ‘Brand Oregon’– what is good for one lifts us all. Oregon is synonymous with quality, whether it is at the top of the price spectrum or topping the Best Buys list,” says Stone.
Aubaine, another Willamette Valley winery, recently ranked #55 on the 2024 Wine Enthusiast Top 100 Cellar Selections list with its 2022 Joie Pinot Noir (94 points). Andy Lytle, Aubaine’s founder, believes location is vital to growing exceptional grapes. “Aubaine comes from our single vineyard estate Anahata in the Eola-Amity Hills. There are many factors as to why we think the AVA is producing world-class wines, but the secret ingredient is the Van Duzer Corridor. The perfect growing conditions to make great wine are warm days and cool nights, allowing the grapes to develop and ripen, but also time to shut down each evening. Tannins and flavor complexity develop with longer hang times– important characteristics of amazing Pinot Noir. The winds of the Van Duzer Corridor allow this process to unfold, bringing cool air from the ocean into the Eola-Amity Hills, each and every night during the growing season. The 2022 Joie, expresses those traditional characteristics, depth and complexity that make Pinot Noir so special. It’s also a blessing to have Isabelle Meunier making Aubaine’s wines.”
After four decades of winegrowing, Tony Soter, founder of the Yamhill-Carlton-based Soter Vineyards, credits biodynamic farming practices as the reason Wine Enthusiast ranked the 2021 Mineral Springs Ranch Pinot Noir #66 (94 points) on their recent Top 100 Cellar Selections list. Soter says, “The effects of biodynamic farming don’t happen overnight, but once the soil activity begins to support the vine, we see a greater sense of personality and resilience to seasonal stresses. The 2021 season, marked by a heat dome and drought, is a case in point— the fruit maintained its integrity and the wine retained a sense of elegance. It’s a testament to the power of biological systems and the respect they command from us as winegrowers.”
Soter Vineyards’ winemaker, Chris Fladwood, says the Pinot “encapsulates everything we cherish about this vineyard. From its refined balance of fruit and earthy brininess to its taut tannin structure that promises a long, graceful evolution— this wine embodies the spirit of Mineral Springs. Biodynamics helped us tap into the authentic character of our soils, unveiling a deeper expression of place with each vintage. It’s evidence of the harmony between nature and craft.”
Cole-Johnson describes the evaluation methods used by the JancisRobinson.com team. “To say we are conservative would be an understatement. We score on the 20-point scale, so a 16 is considered a very good score. In 24 years, our database contains more than a quarter of a million tasting notes. Of those, less than one percent have achieved 19 points or higher,” she says. “The thought being that if a wine continues to improve, we must allow an extra bit of runway. Even with those odds, Pinot Noirs from Domaine Drouhin, Soter and Rose and Arrow have made it into that one percent.”
The sparkling wine revolution
“For the tiny amount of planted acreage in the Willamette Valley, we do seem to ‘bat above average’ for recognition of all our wines: sparkling, white and red,” says Rollin Soles, founder and winemaker at ROCO Winery in the Dundee Hills. Number one on Wine Enthusiast’s 2024 The Enthusiast 100 list is the ROCO Winery 2013 RMS Brut Delayed Disgorgement 10-year sparkling wine (98 points). Observes Soles, “Until recently, I think my highest score was awarded by Wine Spectator for an Argyle Winery 1997 Extended Tirage.”
Soles feels grateful for the recognition: “I greatly appreciate wine critics willing to push Willamette Valley sparkling wines through the ‘glass ceiling’ dominated by Champagne. This latest honor from Michael Alberty and Wine Enthusiast is a wonderfully brave notice. It advances my proclamations over the last 38 years that the Willamette Valley is the greatest region in the New World for world-class quality sparkling wines.”
When asked to characterize the top-ranked wine, Soles initially refers to the year’s significant weather event. “The 2013 vintage was notorious for red wine maturity due to almost 8” of rain in late September. We picked fruit for our sparkling wines during the first two weeks of the month– before the typhoon hit and delivered massive amounts of rain. The grapes were lush with beautiful natural acidity,” says Soles.
“Today, the Delayed Disgorged 2013 displays the complexity achieved by aging cool climate Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The two varieties had 10 years to get acquainted, while wrapped in a blanket of yeasty goodness. Savor each glass of this rare wine.” Soles notes how ROCO is holding additional bottles for a future 15-year “yeast in the bottle” delayed disgorgement release. He concludes with this declaration: “The future of sparkling wines here has never been brighter.”
Lois Cho, CEO and co-founder of CHO Wines, felt thrilled earning a spot (#32) on Wine Enthusiast’s 2024 The Enthusiast 100 list. “It truly is an honor to be mentioned again after our 2017 Brut Rosé was recognized on their 2022 list. Having our 2018 Blanc de Noirs (95 points) selected is truly special to us, especially as a small producer,” says Cho.
Located in the Laurelwood District, one of Willamette Valley’s newer designated growing regions, Cho is proud to contribute to its rising status. She says, “The Blanc de Noirs represents a small fragment of what we do here in Oregon. Multiple nominations like this from our region will hopefully increase the Willamette Valley’s visibility and reputation across the globe.” Cho explains, “The Laurelwood District AVA is a particularly special area of the Chehalem Mountains with volcanic windblown soil and high elevation sites. We feel it has a very unique microclimate within the Willamette Valley for sparkling wines– one of the many reasons we were drawn to our estate.”
Cho also notes the transformation the industry has undergone. Outside the state, many still regard Oregon’s wine scene as emerging. Yet, with more than 60 years of experience, we’ve outgrown that status. “We want to change the perception of Oregon as an underdog. We believe Oregon is a world-class region and only now the world is starting to take notice of what we have known all along,” says Cho.
She agrees with Soles regarding the future of Oregon sparkling wine. However, Cho doesn’t stop there. “We look forward to the next several decades and expected growth in the Valley, not only in sparkling wines but non-traditional cool climate varieties,” she says. “We are excited to be recognized for both our traditional method sparkling wine and for bringing in a new demographic of wine drinkers through our experimental styles, like our Chillable Red and Method Dave Pétillant Naturel, both popular staples in our newly-opened tasting room.”
Corollary Wines, another winery with a new tasting room, snagged #36 on Wine Enthusiast’s 2024 The Enthusiast 100 list with their 2019 X-Omni Blanc de Blancs (96 points). Focused exclusively on sparkling wine, owners Dan Diephouse and Jeanna Feldkamp recently cleared their own land in the Eola-Amity Hills and planted a vineyard. They also work with area winegrowers, including father and son Craig and Gavin Williams who own nearby X Omni Vineyard.
Diephouse says, “We're delighted and honored to be included on the Wine Enthusiast Top 100 list this year. X Omni is such a special site— with a field blend of more than a dozen clones of Chardonnay, we can achieve incredible depth and texture. It really showcases the long-held belief that wine is made in the vineyard.”
During the last decade, many Oregon wineries added sparkling wine to their selections. Years more experience, coupled with higher production numbers, mean rising quality and quantity. Feldkamp says, “There are so many exceptional sparkling wines coming out of the Willamette Valley now. It's exciting to see major publications like Wine Enthusiast recognizing and celebrating this.”
However, sparkling wine production isn’t limited solely to the Willamette Valley. Every appellation produces bubbles, including the Rogue Valley. Irvine & Roberts Vineyards 2018 Blanc de Blancs (96 points) ranked #71 on Wine Enthusiast’s 2024 The Enthusiast 100 list.
Brian Gruber, the winemaker and winegrower, explains his feelings about crafting the selected wine. “It is a great honor to be included in this year’s Wine Enthusiast’s Top 100 list. To me, this demonstrates how Oregon as a whole continues to rise as a world-class wine region, as well as highlighting how the Rogue Valley is evolving and growing as a producer of outstanding wines. It is particularly exciting to see sparkling wine make the list– it is an area where Oregon has tremendous potential and growing momentum.”
Beyond Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
Cole-Johnson understands the challenges faced by wineries focused on other varieties, particularly beyond the Willamette Valley. “The downside is anyone not in the Valley or making Pinot Noir has a far harder go of it. This is a shame, because this state, particularly Willamette Valley and Columbia Gorge, is incredibly well-suited to a plethora of white varieties. The Chenin Blanc and Albariño coming out of the Gorge and the Rieslings produced in the Willamette Valley are rarely exported simply because they do not have the market cache. If you've selected a reputable producer, they can be every bit as good as Pinot Noir,” says Cole-Johnson.
VinePair, a digital media company centered on the “drink culture” of wine, beer and spirits, publishes content and lists geared toward younger drinkers. One list, “25 Best Chillable Red Wines for 2024,” includes Stock’s Limited Addition Wines 2022 Rouge Crush, a unique red blend of Trousseau Noir, Gamay Noir and Pinot Noir.
Stock remembers how her idea developed for the unusual blend: “As I worked and studied my way around the vineyards of the world (before earning my Master of Wine qualification), there always seemed to be a red blend that stood out as an outstanding example of the regional wine. I began to wonder what that might look like from the Willamette Valley. I love the combination of Trousseau, Pinot and Poulsard, common in France’s Jura region. While we don't yet have Poulsard, we do have access to Trousseau Noir, along with Gamay Noir, which retains acidity, ripens later than Pinot Noir and has more tannin structure than the other two grapes.”
In 2022, realizing she had more Gamay and Trousseau than expected, Stock leaped at the opportunity to craft an “everyday drinking red blend with the flexibility of also being a chillable style. Given the changing and erratic nature of the climate in recent years, this could help build a more resilient wine region, by blending for style and structure.”
With her global wine knowledge, Stock outlines her goal with Limited Addition Wines. “Our mission is to create a more sustainable and resilient Willamette Valley wine industry through diversifying vineyard plantings. Doing so allows growers and makers the ability to pivot should a single variety be damaged by frost or other climate impacts. By introducing region-suited blends with grapes that bud and ripen later, and have thicker skins that resist rain and rot, we can craft high-quality wine from several grape varieties while simultaneously creating a new category. The market can only bear so much demand for a single grape variety, so creating new styles from existing varieties can lead to more exposure and expansion for Willamette Valley wineries.”
Division Winemaking Company’s 2020 Gamine Syrah is another Oregon wine on a VinePair list: The 19 Best Syrahs of 2024. Kate Norris, co-owner and co-winemaker of Division Winemaking Company, in Southeast Portland, recounts why she enjoys working with the grape. "Syrah is definitely one of the most chameleon grapes I have ever met– which may be a challenge for the casual wine lover. Syrah can be incredibly different, depending on where in the world it is grown and vinified. I am fascinated by how Oregon is establishing its own set of regional styles for Syrah. People can really dive into discovering what they like locally. From the Willamette Valley, The Rocks District or the Applegate Valley (where my Gamine is grown by Herb Quady), there is such beautiful variety and expression. It is exciting to receive recognition for something we believe in."
Oregon Wine Press 2023 Person of the Year, founder and winegrower of Quady North, Herb Quady is a veteran of wine scores and rankings. Last month, Quady North’s 2019 Cabernet Franc (95 points) earned #92 on Wine Enthusiast’s 2024 Top 100 Cellar Selection list. He says, “Interestingly, this is the third time one of our Cabernet Francs has been named to a Top 100 list. The 2008 was on Wine and Spirits’ Top 100 list, and our 2015 was a Wine Enthusiast Top 100 Cellar Selection. This does point to both 2015 and 2019 being exceptional vintages for Southern Oregon. It also confirms our opinion that the Applegate Valley is an exceptional place to grow Cabernet Franc.”
However, the accolades don’t end with Cabernet Franc. “Our 2019 Syrah 4,2-A was included on Wine and Spirits’ Top 100 Best Buys list, and the 2015 Viognier was also on a Wine Enthusiast Top 100 list,” says Quady.
Acknowledgments from wine publications can be extremely important, especially to Oregon’s many smaller producers. Quady explains why. “As a family-owned winery trying to grow its business and reputation in a challenging sales climate, this type of exposure means a lot to us. It speaks to the skill and commitment of everyone involved. While it’s an honor to be the only Applegate/Rogue Valley wine on this year’s Wine Enthusiast Top 100 Cellar Selections list, I fully expect more local wineries to earn similar recognition in the near future. There are many talented winemakers and exceptional vineyards here.”
Alberty and Stock applaud the solid foundation our industry has built over the last few decades. Stock says, “Across the U.S., Oregon wine is recognized among sommeliers and wine buyers for reliably high quality of our many varieties– not just Pinot Noir. The past three vintages will further cement this reputation. I'm also looking forward to sharing our 2024s. They could prove to be the vintage of the century for the Willamette Valley– and most certainly the vintage of the decade.”
“These end-of-the-year list announcements are great for shining a spotlight on producers not yet well-known on the global stage,” says Alberty. “It can also be a stamp of recognition. Wines made in Oregon deserve as much respect as those from any other region.”
Michele Francisco spent her childhood reading and writing, eventually graduating from UCLA with an English degree. She attended graphic design school and began a career in design and marketing. After moving to Oregon in 2010, Michele studied wine at Chemeketa Community College and began Winerabble, a Northwest-focused wine blog. She has been a cheerleader for Oregon wine since her arrival.
