Riesling Revelations

Explore the grape variety's versatility this Thanksgiving holiday

By Aakanksha Agarwal

When Barnaby Tuttle offered his Crow Valley Vineyard Riesling to mentor Harold Junglen at Weingut Ackermann in Germany's Mosel Valley, he couldn’t anticipate his reaction. “He loved the wine,” Tuttle recalls with a smile, “but didn’t even recognize it as Riesling.”

Tuttle, known for crafting German and Alsatian-inspired wines at Teutonic Wine Company, experienced his own epiphany. Even to the seasoned palates of German winemakers— for whom Riesling is a coveted cultural icon—Oregon’s style was something entirely different. “Riesling is incredibly reflective of its environment,” Tuttle explains. “Our soils supply a unique character you just don’t find anywhere else.”

This reaction is emblematic of what makes Oregon’s Riesling unique. The state’s dramatic geography and varying climates allow the variety a distinct character. Tuttle reflects on the differences, explaining while the Mosel’s slate-rich soils lend notes of lanolin and beeswax, Oregon’s versions— especially from the Willamette Valley— often showcase intriguing vinyl and petrol undertones.

Willamette Valley: The Stronghold of Oregon Riesling

The Willamette Valley, often compared to Burgundy, is also strikingly similar to Germany's Nahe and Pfalz regions, according to Cyler Varnum of Varnum Vintners. “Many of Oregon’s wine pioneers planted Riesling, hoping our climate would mirror that of Germany,” he explained. While Pinot Noir has largely stolen the limelight, Varnum feels passionate about Riesling’s place here. “Riesling is the greatest grape in the world. It’s extremely transparent— it tells you everything about where it’s grown, who crafted it and how it was made.”

While the Riesling grape deserves respect, it remains one of the most challenging to produce and sell. In the Willamette Valley, the variety began as a sweet wine. But the trend shifted, much like rosé, with many producers crafting drier styles. “Personally, I find most dry Rieslings to be masochistic,” says Cyler Varnum. “Riesling’s natural acidity and beautiful aromas of flowers and fruit warrant a touch of sweetness. At Varnum, we’ve been dedicated to Riesling since Day One, creating a haven for its lovers, who have been overlooked for years.”

Varnum’s passion is shared by James Frey of Trisaetum Winery, another Willamette Valley producer. Since 2007, Trisaetum has vinified multiple single-vineyard Rieslings each year, and their wines have even been served at the White House. “Our cool climate and soil diversity are the perfect match for Riesling,” Frey said. “The fruit needs a long hangtime to develop complexity. We often pick our Riesling grapes as late as October or even into November. This extended growing period contributes additional complexity and a deeper expression of the terroir.”

Willamette Valley’s diverse soils represent another reason the region produces such varied Rieslings. Frey notes that at all three of his vineyards, just 15 miles apart, he farms, picks, and ferments using the same method and still produces three distinct Rieslings. “Our Coast Range Vineyard, with its ancient soils, imparts citrus and green apple notes, while the marine sediments of Ribbon Ridge create riper, juicier wines. And from the volcanic soils of Dundee Hills, we get maximum tension and minerality.”

Janie Heuck of Brooks Wine, a stalwart advocate for Oregon Riesling, continues the legacy her late brother, Jimi Brooks, began in the 1990s. “When Jimi started, Riesling was being ripped out because it was hard to grow and harder to sell,” Heuck said. “Yet, he believed in the grape’s potential and sought out some of the best Riesling sites in the Valley, including Hyland Vineyard and our own Brooks Estate.” Today, Brooks produces a wide range of Rieslings, emphasizing the variety of expressions produced by different soils. “On volcanic soils, we develop high minerality with lemon and lime notes, while marine sediment provides riper, more tropical flavors.”

Heuck believes in Riesling’s resurgence as new generations of Oregon winemakers rediscover its potential. “There’s increasing interest in non-Chardonnay, non-Pinot Gris whites. People are looking for something different, and Riesling provides that.”

The Umpqua Valley: A Hidden Gem for Riesling

While the Willamette Valley may be Oregon’s most famous region for Riesling, the Umpqua Valley, particularly the Elkton area, emerges as another stronghold. Tyler Bradley of Bradley Vineyards has grown Riesling here for over 40 years. “Our Riesling vines are on their 41st leaf, and they thrive in Elkton’s cool climate,” Bradley said. “Our proximity to the Pacific Ocean allows for cool breezes to temper the warmth, creating ideal growing conditions for Riesling.”

Bradley’s Rieslings frequently exhibit classic petrol notes, particularly with age, along with bright citrus and green apple. He prefers to make a dry or barely off-dry style, which, he notes is in line with current trends. “We used to leave more residual sugar to balance the acidity, but now, people want drier styles that let the acid shine.”

Elkton’s microclimates, formed by the Umpqua River Gorge, create a range of expressions within a small area. “We get the best of both worlds—the warmth of Southern Oregon and the cooling influence of the Pacific,” Bradley explained. He points to Brandborg Vineyard & Winery, another Elkton producer, as preeminent. “Brandborg’s Riesling has even been featured in The New York Times. It’s a special area for the grape.”

Pockets of Excellence

In the Rogue Valley, Riesling’s success becomes more site-specific in an area divided into four macro-terroirs— Sams, Bear Creek, Applegate and Illinois Valleys. The latter became the most promising for Riesling. Due to its proximity to the Pacific, the Illinois Valley is the coolest region with increased rainfall, ideal for delicate, aromatic whites. Cave Junction’s Foris Vineyards has garnered a reputation for producing exceptional Riesling, with bright acidity and fruit-forward flavors. Sound & Vision Wine Co., with a new tasting room in Talent, is also making waves by capitalizing on the microclimates that allow Riesling to thrive in distinct areas throughout the Rogue Valley.

The Columbia Gorge American Viticultural Area, straddling the border of Oregon and Washington, creates yet another distinct expression of Riesling. With dramatic differences in elevation and terroir from vineyard to vineyard, the area grows some excellent Rieslings. Underwood, Washington’s Savage Grace Wines and Phelps Creek Vineyard in Hood River are among the area’s stellar producers, each crafting wines reflecting the rugged, wind-swept landscapes of the region.

Though best known for bold reds, the Walla Walla Valley also grows excellent Riesling. Cooler sites, particularly at higher elevations, result in ideal conditions for slower ripening and acidity retention. While still a small part of the appellation’s overall production, Figgins Winery and Zerba Cellars are exploring Riesling’s potential, with small lots that demonstrate the variety’s versatility. These wines tend to be fruit-forward and extremely food-friendly.

As the holiday season approaches, embrace Riesling. Whether you’re giving a bottle, beginning the feast, or jazzing up leftovers, consider some local suggestions that deserve a place on your Thanksgiving table…

Gift for the host:

Teutonic Wine Company Crow Valley Vineyard Riesling

Bright, zesty and absolutely gift-worthy. This bottle’s citrusy zing and chic label make it the perfect “thank you” for your Thanksgiving host.

Pre-dinner snacks and starters:

Brooks Wine La Chenaie Riesling

Kick off your feast with this Riesling’s slightly off-dry charm. Green apple and pear notes dance with cheese boards, charcuterie and roasted nuts, making pre-dinner bites as delightful as the main event.

The main feast:

Chehalem Winery Corral Creek Vineyard Riesling

Turkey, stuffing… and this Riesling. What more do you need? With lemon zest, peach and floral notes, it’s the ultimate Thanksgiving accompaniment.

Wine for hearty vegetarian dishes:

Varnum Vintners Cuddihy Riesling

Garlicky portobello mushrooms and grilled miso eggplant meet their match. This semi-sweet Riesling’s apricot and honey notes are perfect for balancing out savory, umami flavors. And if you’re skipping the alcohol, try Varnum’s NA sparkling Riesling Juice— all the festive fizz without the buzz.

Pairing with sweet potatoes:

Brandborg Vineyard & Winery Riesling

Sweet potatoes with marshmallows and this off-dry Riesling? Of course! The chamomile and ripe peach flavors accentuate the best in those caramelized notes.

A special wine for pie:

Sleight of Hand Evergreen Vineyard Riesling

Pumpkin or pecan pie finds its perfect partner. With hints of apricot and vanilla, this Riesling makes those sweet treats even sweeter.

The ideal wine for leftovers:

Willamette Valley Vineyards Riesling

It’s no secret that leftovers are the best part of Thanksgiving. So, pairing them with a stellar wine makes sense. Overloaded turkey sandwiches make the perfect match for this refreshing Riesling. Citrus and white flower notes keep things bright and lively, making leftover meals a second celebration.

The perfect wine for the holiday morning:

Hoquetus Wine Co. Les Collines Vineyard Dry Riesling

For a post-Thanksgiving brunch, this zesty Riesling is a win. Its vibrant profile pairs perfectly with breakfast casseroles or a turkey and cranberry sandwich. Start your day off right!

Wine for a toast:

Trisaetum Winery Wichmann Dundee Estate Dry Riesling

Crisp and lively, what a perfect Riesling for a toast. Its bright, vibrant profile adds a touch of celebration to your Thanksgiving festivities.

Something unique for Riesling lovers:

Bradley Vineyards Everything Happens for a Riesling

Complex notes of green apple, apricot and jasmine make this bottle unforgettable. Perfect for pairing with multiple Thanksgiving dishes while impressing even the most discerning Riesling fans.

Aakanksha Agarwal is a wine, travel and lifestyle writer from India. Formerly a Bollywood stylist, she now resides in the U.S., embracing writing full-time while juggling family life and indulging in her passions for cuisine, literature and wanderlust.