Parallel Path

Where wine inspires the kitchen

By Neil Ferguson

After years of catering along with hosting pop-ups and special dinners in Oregon’s wine country, Stacey and Joey Gibson made the transition to a brick-and-mortar establishment. The chef and sommelier husband-and-wife team built a reputation under the name Parallel, a reference to the connections between food and wine pairings driving their approach. Last August, they opened the doors to their wine bar and restaurant with the same name. Sitting in a gorgeous, sun-filled Bindery Building space in Portland’s Kern neighborhood, Parallel could be set in a Wes Anderson film with its flowery wallpaper, mahogany wood and vintage feel. It’s no wonder the restaurant has been gaining steam for its wine-centric menu with creative food and cocktails.

This journey began after the couple fell in love with Oregon. “Joey and I met almost 20 years ago in New York while working in restaurants. In 2012, I worked harvest at Belle Pente Vineyard & Winery and Anne Amie Vineyards. After returning home, we decided to move here. Three years later, around the time our daughter was born, we began holding dinner pop-ups. The concept we had the most fun with involved me picking the wine and Joey focusing the food around it. It was a fun challenge for Joey,” notes Stacey.

Stacey worked as wine director at Portland’s esteemed Park Avenue Wines, eventually becoming a partner, before it closed in 2022. She previously managed the wine list at Momofuku’s Má Pêche, and, in 2013, passed the Advanced Sommelier exam with the Court of Master Sommeliers. Joey worked as a sous chef at Southeast Portland farm-to-table institutions Roman Candle Baking Co. and Olympia Provisions. Between these restaurants and years working under Peter Hoffman, New York’s esteemed “godfather of farm-driven food,” Joey developed a passion for cooking with fresh, local ingredients.

“In general, everything I came from was hyper-farm-driven food,” says Joey.

His approach fit perfectly with the Willamette Valley’s “what grows together goes together” adage, leading to pop-ups at wineries, including Penner-Ash and Soléna Estate. As they began gaining traction in wine country, Stacey and Joey dreamed of opening a wine bar– one that could become a neighborhood fixture.
“We wanted a home base somewhere so our vision became a wine bar where we could continue doing events. A catering kitchen was a necessity,” recalls Stacey.

Running a business as a husband-and-wife team might entail its share of challenges, but Stacey and Joey use it to their advantage. “We work incredibly well together. I think the whole dynamic with our team is incredibly healthy. There’s never a ‘mom and dad are fighting’ vibe. We put a lot of work into successfully communicating,” adds Stacey.

Instead of creating a menu and building a wine list around it, they do everything jointly. This ensures each dish has a perfect pairing. Their signature Parallel Salad– an umami-rich riff on a Caesar with lemon anchovy vinaigrette is paired with the racy acidity and soft creaminess of a Cameron Dundee Hills Chardonnay. Homemade goat cheese ice cream (a source of pride for Joey) is ideally matched with Elk Cove Vineyards’ Ultima white dessert wine.

“Parallel Salad is especially technical and remains one of our staples. The special part of the salad is Worcestershire-cured egg yolk. We freeze it, then shave the frozen egg yolk over the salad. It’s relatively simple but that extra touch adds a lot of flavor. It just absolutely crushes with Oregon Chardonnay,” exclaims Stacey.

To create their menu, Stacey first chooses the wines. While tasting them together, they conceptualize possible dishes, a process she admits can either be really complex or super easy and fun. While eating dinner at Parallel, you experience the results of this process in a small, yet mighty array of dishes balanced by creativity, complexity and familiarity. One of the best examples is the smoked lamb belly, a truly collaborative dish Stacey and Joey designed to reflect specific notes in a Cabernet Franc.

“We tasted leather and tobacco notes in the wine and Joey says, ‘I want to pull that out of this dish.’ We knew what we were going for, but he researched and found a pine-smoked [Lapsang] black tea. After smoking and curing, it’s super tender– the best lamb belly I’ve ever had. That was one of our more cerebral pairings, whereas the duck sausage feels really classic. For some dishes, we reflect on the wine region for inspiration, while others immediately spark ideas,” shares Stacey.

Joey cleverly incorporates his Southern roots in Parallel’s menu, creating snack dishes like fried peanuts and, a customer favorite, hushpuppies, practically a natural for starting the meal.

“The uni butter just adds an extra richness and makes it so much more decadent. I always pair bubbles with those,” notes Stacey, a sparkling wine fan.
Parallel’s hush puppies, fried to a golden crisp with ideal moistness and density, combined with sweet and salty in each bite supplies an unexpected twist to typical wine bar fare. This dish, as well as others: coffee-roasted beets paired with Malbec and deliciously smoky fried pork croquettes alongside a zingy Gewürztraminer, truly represent their culinary philosophy.

Joey explains, “Usually, wine is kind of an afterthought. The chef comes in, says here’s a dish, and then the somm or front of house manager tracks down a compatible wine. Our way creates a better pairing experience, giving you a little path to follow. Then, there are all the layers of seasons,” observes Joey, who rotates specific dishes, depending on the time of year.

Opening their own space was primarily driven by the couple’s shared passion for hospitality, something only accomplished in limited amounts when hosting pop-ups and wine dinners. At Parallel, Stacey can educate guests, getting them excited about wine regardless of their knowledge, while Joey develops food to complement said wines. You can see this on the menu, which often includes recommended pairings Stacey is happy to explain. She keeps the restaurant stocked with an extensive and diverse bottle list, as well as glass pours and flights of Willamette Valley Pinot Noir. In a climate when wine often struggles to compete with cocktails, Stacey works hard to meet people where they are while encouraging them to try the wines.

“I definitely feel like, for as much effort I put into the bottle list, our guests are more interested in glass pours. Curiosity-wise, people want to sample different wines rather than committing to an entire bottle. They are still very into glass pours and flights,” she states.

For those seeking a more casual experience, Parallel includes staples like cheese and charcuterie boards but with more craftsmanship than your average, store-bought ingredients.

“We offer wine bar staples because we want people to think, ‘hey, it’s a wine bar, I’m going to have a glass of wine and a cheese board.’ I love how Joey makes the jams and crackers, elevating a simple cheese board into something really special,” notes Stacey, who can’t help but brag about Joey’s homemade mustards and onion jam.

Many Portland restaurants and wine bars stock surprisingly few Oregon wines lately, choosing instead to showcase imports at lower price points or trendy “natty” styles. With Parallel, Stacey places an added emphasis on wines from across the state. Browse through her bottle list for an eclectic range from Oregon: an array of Pinot Noirs, Columbia Valley white blends, Rogue Valley Viognier and The Rocks District Syrah. In everything she does, from her monthly wine club to special events, Stacey’s love for Oregon wine is on display. These all sit comfortably alongside a well-curated selection from Italy, France, Spain and beyond.

Whether reserving a table for Saturday date night or meeting a friend for a casual glass of wine (or cocktail), Parallel is a worthy destination. In a time when training and retaining staff can be challenging, and true hospitality seems secondary for many restaurants, Stacey and Joey Gibson’s approach is admirable. The best neighborhood bars and restaurants– ones that become institutions– succeed with consistency, quality, and making their guests feel comfortable and welcome. As Stacey looks to set Parallel up for success, this is top of mind.

“Genuine hospitality is so important for us. I am such a people pleaser and want people to feel like we just made them happy. It’s a warm, inviting space, and my staff is amazing. People leave here telling me, ‘I tasted good wine, ate really good food, this place is beautiful, you guys took such good care of us.’ It feels like all of those things really come together.”

Parallel
3101 N.E. Sandy Blvd., Portland
(971) 339-3143
parallelpdx.com

Neil Ferguson is a journalist, editor and marketer. Originally from the tiny state of Rhode Island and spending his formative years in Austin, Texas, he has long focused his writing around cultural pursuits, whether they be music, beer, wine or food. Neil previously worked as director of marketing for the Oregon Wine Board. He currently contributes regularly to Willamette Week, Sip Magazine, The New School, Glide Magazine and other outlets. Read more at www.neilferguson.work.