Old World, New Roots: Part Two

The Rogue Valley is home to a wide range of grape varieties

By Paula Bandy

While the Rogue Valley is recognized for Rhône and Bordeaux varieties, Italian grapes are increasingly popular, especially in warmer zones. With an extraordinary range of microclimates, it’s only natural for Italian varieties to thrive here as well.

The Italian Connection

In 1960, Medford became a sister city with Alba, an Italian town nestled in the country’s Piedmont region. Home to the oldest white truffle fair, Alba is also the birthplace of the beloved Nutella spread. Where hazelnut trees flourish alongside vineyards, it sits among the rolling hills of Langhe-Roero, a designated UNESCO World Heritage site. Vine pollen dating from the fifth century B.C. has been found in the area. Some of Italy’s most sought-after wines, Barolo and Barbaresco, are produced here from the noble Nebbiolo grape.

Though separated by geography, Medford (and the greater Rogue Valley) shares an agricultural heartbeat– and plentiful wine and food traditions– with Alba. This sister city relationship is more than symbolic– it’s a cross-continental connection weaving together farming passions, vineyard traditions and the ever-evolving pursuit of excellent wine. As Italian grape variety plantings gain popularity in the Rogue Valley, relations between the regions strengthen.

Rogue Valley’s Growing Love for Italian Varietals

Several wineries are embracing the vinous opportunity to display their fondness for Italian grapes. Let’s look at some of these less-known varieties planted in the Rogue Valley.

Arneis, one of Piedmont’s top white grapes, often found in the hills of Alba, is currently growing at Oregon State University’s Southern Oregon Research and Extension Center, or SOREC. Indigenous to the region, Italian winemakers use it to soften Nebbiolo’s harsh tannins. A difficult grape to grow, its usage declined almost to extinction before a renaissance began.

Dr. Alexander Levin, SOREC’s director and viticulturist, is also growing Vermentino. He explains why. “I was seeking another variety to plant in a specific vineyard block. With Medford and Alba being sister cities, Vermentino stood out. I believe we should consider regional, state and international– along with local value– when doing research. And, Northern Italian grapes, both white and red, do very well here.”

Italian white wines, with their distinct characteristics, are gaining local popularity and recognition. Light, refreshing– and often spritzy– the “Italian vibe” appeals to a broad audience. “I think white grapes are massively underplanted here,” notes Levin. “Far more could be cultivated, drawing additional visitors to our area.”

Advantageous and Adventurous

Levin hopes the region “continues attracting winemakers with vision and talent. I want to see even more varieties and winemaking styles. How about a winery focused solely on white wines? They exist elsewhere, and I’d like to see them here. Let’s appeal to new wine drinkers.”

“Rogue Valley is the candy store of grape varietals,” observes Rachel Martin, owner and winemaker at Red Lily Vineyards, enticing those with a taste for the avant-garde.

Circadian Cellars owner and winemaker, Sara Garr, believes in creative license. “I like working with many varieties and not being confined to a few– or even a specific region. I want my wines to be dynamic, disruptive.”

Garr’s portfolio comprises several award-winning wines, including double-golds for her 2020 Primitivo and orange Vermentino. The Circadian Cellars Malvasia Bianca Pét-nat is an example of her unconventional style, ambrosial with hints of Orange Creamsicle melon and marshmallow. Garr explains, “Many make a still, skin-contact or dessert wine with this grape. Not me– I think it’s best with bubbles.” (I agree.)

Co-owner of Sound & Vision Wine Co., winemaker Joe Chepolis, isn’t afraid to try new things either. The winery’s upcoming wine list is unquestionably Italian-influenced: Tocai Friulano, Vermentino, Aglianico, Nero d’Avola and Fiano. (See sidebar for others planned for the future.)

When asked why these varieties, Chepolis replies, “Well, more than anything, it’s what we like to drink. As for growing, it’s hot and dry here. I prefer grapes that retain acidity and handle heat– Italian varieties are recognized for that. Making wine from grapes nobody can pronounce and few have heard of is another factor. It helps us stand out in a competitive market.”

Black-skinned Aglianico, planted in 2020, is the first in Oregon. Chepolis used a French Sichuan sandstone amphora for the 2024 Vermentino and plans to ferment a Fiano in it next. Different from terra cotta, Chepolis explains, “Ours is pretty dense, it’s not quite like impenetrable stainless steel, but still pretty tight. The shape allows for conduction, so it’s constantly stirring the lees, creating added texture.”

Chepolis strives to “meet people where they are with wine. They yearn for an experience– something authentic and fun.” Watch for more Sound & Vision Wine Co. single varietals, high acid reds and big white blends. “People are drinking more white wines, and that’s surely going to be a thing,” he adds.

Bayer Family Estate and Belle Fiore Winery, located on opposite ends of the Valley, focus on Italian varieties. Bayer, with its Tuscan-style tasting room amid ponds and willow trees, is located on lush green former ranch land in the northern Upper Rogue Valley. Crafting traditional varieties, including Nebbiolo, the winery offers two refreshing Italian-style frizzantes: rosé of Primitivo and Chardonnay.

Belle Fiore Winery’s vineyards stretch over wide, sun-washed hillsides in the Bear Creek Valley. Enjoy bird’s-eye views from the outside patio while sipping two iconic Italian varietals: Montepulciano and Caprettone.

Landscape of Endless Possibilities

Levin observes, “We’re good at growing awesome fruit and have a really great place to do it without many viticultural challenges. Disease pressure is relatively low, it’s warm and we have water. The Rogue Valley attracts visionary winemakers. I expect more wineries to specialize, along with hiring highly skilled winemakers.”

Tasting Notes

Belle Fiore Winery 2019 Reserve Caprettone - A sip to remember. Native to the Vesuvius region of Southern Italy, it’s both savory and delicate with aromas of honeysuckle and light citrus with musk melon, evolving into a refreshing cucumber finish.

Sound & Vision Wine Co. 2024 Applegate Valley Vermentino - Fermented in stainless steel, it opens with lemony oak, white floral aromas, rich lemongrass and a creamy texture.

Sound & Vision Wine Co. 2023 4 Diamonds Vermentino - Made in amphora, has notes of tart lemon with an interplay of flint, wet stone, petrol and lime zest with a lingering hint of salinity.

Bayer Family Estate 2018 Nebbiolo - Elegant and well-structured with ripe cherries, hints of wild earthy herb aromas and flavors that finish with a touch of savory currant.

Troon Vineyard & Farm 2024 Clairette Blanche - Still in barrel but I tasted white flower, melon sorbet and lemony nectarine. It’s light and savory, with a touch of tartness.

Troon Vineyard & Farm 2024 Bourboulenc - Also still in barrel. This wine is known for being a bit tropical with lush, bright flavors create a fresh, lively, yet dry wine.

Red Lily Vineyard 2023 Stargazer Verdejo - Subtle minerality, candied lime and a touch of floral honeysuckle balance crisp, refreshing acidity with ageability.

Long Walk Vineyard 2023 Carignane - The taste opens with a mousse of dark cherry, blackberry and dried rose with a red licorice undertow. It’s savory and slightly wild tasting, yet elegant.

Plaisance Ranch 2021 Mondeuse - Ranchlands and winelands merge in the bottle of this deep purple, intensely aromatic, earthy wine. Flavors of ripe plums with pepper and spice pair nicely with red meats and creamy cheeses.

Troon Vineyard & Farm 2023 Negrette - The first vintage is stellar. Initially, its scent is demure, but the flavor is mature for such a young wine. Rich, inky, sweeping into blackberry-filled dark chocolate. Elegant. Brooding carbon is balanced by violet and lithic, stone-like nuances.

Rogue and Applegate Valley producers crafting wines from unusual European grape varieties 

French White Varieties

• Aligoté — Plaisance Ranch
• Bourboulenc — Troon Vineyard & Farm
• Clairette Blanche — Troon Vineyard & Farm
• Grenache Blanc — Quail Run Vineyards, Quady North, Troon Vineyard & Farm
• Grenache Gris — Troon Vineyard & Farm
• Picpoul — Agathodaemon Wine
• Melon de Bourgogne — The Punch House
• Savignan — Iruai, Quail Run Vineyards
• Semillon — Quail Run Vineyards, Weisinger Family Winery

French Red Varieties

• Carignane — Long Walk Vineyard, Troon Vineyard & Farm
• Cinsault — Long Walk Vineyard, Troon Vineyard & Farm, Quail Run Vineyards
• Counoise — Troon Vineyard & Farm, Quail Run Vineyards
• Mondeuse — Plaisance Ranch
• Negrette — Troon Vineyard & Farm
• Persan — Plaisance Ranch
• Tannat (Basque) — Weisinger Family Winery, Quail Run Vineyards, Quady North, Troon Vineyard & Farm
• Tibouren — Troon Vineyard & Farm
• Trousseau — Quail Run Vineyards

Portuguese White Varieties

• Verdejo — Red Lily Vineyards, Belle Fiore Winery

Portuguese Red Varieties

• Tinta Caõ — Red Lily Vineyards
• Touriga Nacional — Belle Fiore Winery, Red Lily Vineyards, Weisinger Family Vineyard

Spanish Red Varieties

• Mencía — Quail Run Vineyards

Italian White Varieties

• Arneis — OSU Extension Experimental
• Caprettone — Belle Fiore Winery
• Carricante — Sound & Vision Wine Co.
• Fiano — Sound & Vision Wine Co., DANCIN Vineyards
• Greco — Sound & Vision Wine Co.
• Falanghina — Sound & Vision Wine Co.
• Malvasia Bianco — Circadian Cellars, The Punch House
• Ribolla Gialla — Sound & Vision Wine Co.
• Tocai Friulano — Sound & Vision Wine Co.
• Vermentino — Quail Run Vineyards, Sound & Vision Wine Co., Troon Vineyard & Farm, Quady North
• Zibbibo — Sound & Vision Wine Co.

Italian Red Varieties

• Aglianico — Quady North, Sound & Vision Wine Co.
• Frappato — Sound & Vision Wine Co.
• Graciano — Red Lily Vineyards
• Montepulciano — Belle Fiore Winery
• Nebbiolo — DANCIN Vineyards, Bayer Family Estate
• Nerello Mascalese — Sound & Vision Wine Co.
• Nero D’Avola — Quady North, Schmidt Family Vineyards, Sound & Vision Wine Co.
• Refosco — Sound & Vision Wine Co.
• Schioppettino — Sound & Vision Wine Co.
• Teroldego — Schmidt Family Vineyards, Belle Fiore Winery, Quail Run Vineyards

Paula Bandy and her dachshund, Copperiño, are often seen at Rogue Valley’s finest wineries, working to solve the world’s problems. She has covered wine, lifestyle, food and home in numerous publications and academic work in national and international journals. For a decade she was an essayist/on-air commentator and writer for Jefferson Public Radio, Southern Oregon University’s NPR affiliate. Most recently she penned The Wine Stream, a bi-weekly wine column for the Rogue Valley Times. Paula believes wine, like beauty, can save the world. She’s also a Certified Sherry Wine Specialist and currently sits on the Board for Rogue Valley Vintners. @_paulabandy.