Hope Springs Eternal

Drink Washington State and Eternal Wines opens new tasting room

By Sheila Hagar

Brad Binko adores wine. All of it. The planning, growing, harvesting and making. He loves watching customers light up when they tip a glass, too.

Equally so, the founder of Drink Washington State and Eternal Wines thrives on gathering together people, food, music and experiences.

All of that now happens firmly on the Oregon side of the state line, in Milton-Freewater. It only takes one visit to Binko’s highway-facing winery tasting room to see his enthusiasm.

Inside what was once a boat sales and repair business, a cheery and convivial atmosphere now prevails. Shiny corrugated metal walls are chockablock with framed photos and art, while wooden beams echo the warmth of the rustic tables below. Eternal Wines’ beverage menu extends beyond wine. Visitors can enjoy wine slushies, a zesty Mexican beer cocktail, regional beers on tap, plus sangria and ciders.

Binko’s latest enterprise is quickly gaining fans. On a recent evening, people were letting their hair down after work, meeting up with friends and listening to the classic ballads of a guitar-strumming musician.

Depending on the day, visitors can find a football game on seven TV screens, play trivia, shoot bumper pool or enjoy a band. Beer Night is becoming a draw, too, Binko adds.

In the parking lot, the red Memo’s Tacos food truck serves a steady stream of customers. It’s not unusual for a diner to sip something at the bar inside while awaiting a beeper summons.

Binko is plenty good at the winemaking part, too, based on his past gold medals and this year’s Washington State Wine Awards, when he was chosen as one of the “Fantastic Four” winemakers. From Cabernet Franc to Syrah, six Eternal wines earned gold medals in the competition, bringing his career total to more than 300 similar wins, according to Binko. So far.

The designation comes as Eternal Wines crests a new horizon, with its recent move across the border into Oregon.

After working as a restaurateur and Master Sommelier in South Carolina, the New York native eventually arrived in Walla Walla in 2014 to put legs to his dream of making world-class wine, Binko shares. He launched his Eternal Wines and Drink Washington State while enrolled in Walla Walla Community College’s acclaimed Enology and Viticulture program.

His first release, in the spring of 2016, garnered hearty media reviews, three gold medals and eager customers.

Binko’s trajectory continues upward as he crafts one award-winning wine after another. He invested in community events, including a concert and food series, “Beats & Bites,” Walla Walla’s Pride festival to late-night dance parties. Binko shared a tasting room with another winery, but his sales volume commanded its own place. Production, inventory and events grew; his operation needed more space. Binko wanted to establish a more casual atmosphere— less pretense, more inclusivity.

He first spotted the empty building on Oregon’s Highway 11 a couple years ago. Seeing the potential, Binko did the research and math; at 4,400 square feet on two acres, he would have plenty of space to create his vision.

However, the building’s sales price initially made the purchase unfeasible. A year later, the asking price fell, allowing Binko to buy the property and close his Walla Walla tasting room.

When Binko announced his Washington State Wine Awards win, he shared how his operation runs without corporate backing, cellar hands or an unlimited budget.

Converting an aging warehouse space into a welcoming, vibrant spot required nearly nonstop, hands-on attention. Binko and his staff labored for three months before the March opening. The transformation has been a happy surprise to many who have come through the door, Binko observes.

“Even my dad wondered how I was going to manage this,” he recalls with a laugh. “We’re still trying to figure out the layout of everything … But it’s a good spot.”

As Eternal Wines continues evolving, plans call to plant grapevines on the property next year. This summer, he discovered hidden plants nestled in the overgrowth and used their grapes to garnish some of the menu items.

Binko is finding a warm reception from new Milton-Freewater visitors, and fans from Walla Walla are finding their way to the new location.

“We’re starting to get regulars… something we didn’t experience in our previous tasting room, out by the airport,” he notes. “Everyone comes in and says it’s so welcoming and different.”

In the meantime, the winemaker diligently tends to his numerous wine productions in the back third of the building. The Drink Washington State label has always been a good seller, especially the Eternal Lust Albariño, Binko shares, and he’s currently working on one of his favorites, the Eternal Evolution orange wine.

He became a fan of the skin-contact white when a former enology peer was gushing over the idea in 2018. “I’d never thought about it, but said ‘Let’s go for it.’ It’s very gravitational; people either love it or hate it. I call it the white for red wine drinkers,” Binko adds.

Having a robust selection of varieties is important to him. From Syrah to Cabernet Franc to Viognier, visitors can choose from 30 distinct wines.

Eternal Wines’ focus is on single-vineyard Rhône varietals, all hand-picked from premium vineyards. Binko uses native fermentation, extended maceration and non-intrusive winemaking techniques. “Our sister label, ‘Drink Washington State,’ focuses on blends from various regions in Washington that are also an amazing value,” he describes.

This labor and focus reflect Binko’s driving force: to provide a great experience for all kinds of people.

Eternal Wines & Drink Washington State
85514 OR-11, Milton-Freewater
(509) 240-6258
Open daily 10:30 a.m. — 8 p.m.

Sheila Hagar lives with her farmer spouse in Eastern Oregon, writing and reporting for a variety of organizations, businesses and media outlets. She began her writing career as an occasional columnist for publications such as the Chicago Tribune and The Oregonian. Hagar then reported for the Walla Walla Union-Bulletin newspaper for 25 years. She buys wine from Grocery Outlet.