Grape Explications!

OWP contributor releases first book

By Greg Norton

Wine rewards the curious, inviting exploration beyond the bottle. Whether navigating country roads to discover rural tasting rooms, attending grand wine events, visiting renowned vineyard regions or meeting passionate vintners, a restless palate leads to unexpected discoveries.

Author Neal D. Hulkower has traveled that compelling path for a lifetime. Now, he shares his incisive observations along the way in his new book, “Grape Explications!” The McMinnville resident’s byline is familiar to Oregon Wine Press readers through dozens of articles in these pages.

Hulkower applied an analytical approach to wine writing after a peripatetic career that led him from university teaching to rocket science and software startups. He has lived in 11 states and traveled through wine regions worldwide. The Willamette Valley is now his chosen– and beloved– home.

“Grape Explications!” contains an anthology of articles published over the last decade and a half in Oregon Wine Press, Journal of Wine Research, Journal of Wine Economics and the American Wine Society Wine Journal, as well as on various websites including wine-searcher.com and trinkmag.com. The book also includes several accounts published for the first time.

The essays are arranged into eight sections depending on topic or genre. They begin with a reflection on Hulkower’s earliest wine experiences during his student days, when he earned degrees in astronomy and applied mathematics. Sections include reports from meetings of the American Association of Wine Economists and Oregon’s International Pinot Noir Celebrations, followed by book reviews and insights on his role as a Field Coordinator for the Slow Wine Guide USA. Three substantial sections are dedicated to the Willamette Valley, and a charming closing section features vinous miscellany.

Hulkower approaches words seriously, especially those used to describe wine (“minerality,” “masculine,” “feminine,” “elegant,” and “sexy” occur more than once). While he avoids writing tasting notes, his recollections of the wines he has tasted are models of concision.

Given his academic background, Hulkower’s interest in numerically scoring wines in competitions remains unsurprising. “Borda is Better” presents a rating system he believes best reflects judges’ preferences. Among his earliest wine-related writings, this topic connects Hulkower’s previous endeavors with wine journalism.

Hulkower’s thirteen book reviews will send wine lovers running to the bookstore or library. Another reflection of the author’s boundless interests, the books range from a technical tome exploring the brain science of wine tasting and one probing into vineyard geology to a memoir of America’s youngest sommelier. Several of particular interest to Oregon wine fans are included (Katherine Cole’s “Voodoo Vintners,” Vivian Perry and John Vincent’s “Winemakers of the Willamette Valley,” Cila Warncke’s “Oregon Wine Pioneers” and Anna Maria Ponzi’s “Pinot Girl”). As he discusses the books, Hulkower characteristically reveals his own– often generous, assessments. Introducing a review decidedly more mixed, he quips, “I’ve adopted a modified version of advice my parents gave me: If you can’t say anything nice, at least write it down.”

Chronicling of Oregon wine history, Part IV, “Willamette Valley Happenings,” Part V, “Personalities,” and Part VI, “AHIVOY,” constitute the volume’s most valuable content. He documents the renaissance of Chardonnay and growing interest in whole-cluster fermentation alongside accounts of various industry events, exciting directions and initiatives. Chief among these is AHIVOY, the nonprofit education program for vineyard stewards. Hulkower served on the board during its formative years. He even covers a short-lived “Weed and Wine Tour,” promoted by the legalization of recreational marijuana in the state.

“Grape Explications!” concludes with nine essays veering from general (“The Value of Elegance”) to personal (“Requiem for My First Wine Friend”) to borderline comical (“Grape Expectorations: Confessions of a Novice Spitter”). Included are biographical anecdotes, definitive opinions, along with plenty of wit and wisdom. Readers still uncertain about Hulkower’s views will enjoy a brief and acerbic “Devil’s Wine Glossary.”

Reading this book cover to cover results in a fair amount of repetitive material, as the articles were originally intended to stand alone. In the Preface, Hulkower suggests readers to “Feel free to jump around and sample the essays in whatever order you fancy.” That may be the best way to enjoy this book. The collection engages the general reader while preserving what might otherwise be fleeting magazine writing. “If [the essays] amuse, entertain, educate, encourage you to try a new bottle, or open a new book, I will have succeeded,” continues the Preface. A comprehensive index and a chronology of the original publication dates aid those researching specific topics.

A winemaker recently mentioned how she believes “terroir” extends even to those who live and write among the vines. As such, “Grape Explications!” adds a significant horizon to the “sedimentary soil” of Oregon wine journalism. It captures an observant writer documenting the past 15 years of the state’s wine industry against the broader backdrop of his lifelong, international appreciation for the grape. As one of Hulkower’s fellow contributors to these pages, I feel humbled by the breadth and clarity of his writing. Consider it a valuable addition to the region’s growing literature, presenting something enticing to any reader. Order “Grape Explications!” from your favorite local bookstore or online retailer.

Greg Norton is a freelance writer with a broad background in nonprofit communications and the arts. He studied journalistic writing through the UCLA Extension and has traveled to wine regions around the world. Greg is a Certified Specialist of Wine and received the Level II award from the Wine and Spirits Education Trust. When not writing about wine, he can be found pouring it in the tasting room at Campbell Lane Winery near West Linn. Read more by Greg at www.onthevine.blog.