A New Frontline

Veterans find their second act in wine

By Aakanksha Agarwal

In our local winemaking scene, we’re fortunate to have veterans bringing their unique strengths and experiences to the craft. People, who once navigated the complexities of military life now channel their adaptability into producing remarkable wines.

During November’s Veterans Month, let’s honor these exceptional individuals, their second acts, and the outstanding wines they create.

Roger Lemstrom, Owner and winemaker at Los Rocosos Vineyards

Sequestered in Northeastern Oregon's The Rocks District of Milton-Freewater, Los Rocosos Vineyards stands out from average boutique wineries. Roger Lemstrom, the man behind it, is no typical vintner. His journey to winemaking winds through military service in Vietnam, working in the Peace Corps on dairy farms in Fiji, a career in construction, and an epiphany directing him to wine school at age 60.

“I wasn’t always a wine drinker. I’d never thought about making wine, let alone drinking it. But life has a funny way of leading you exactly where you’re meant to be,” says Lemstrom.

After serving in Vietnam, Lemstrom joined the Peace Corps, stationed on a dairy farm in Fiji. “I managed the farm, learned Hindi and developed a taste for goat curry,” he recalls. Lemstrom credits those roles in shaping his approach to both life and business. “It was an incredible experience. It taught me adaptability—something that comes in handy while running a vineyard. You’ve got to be able to switch gears, whether managing a dairy farm or coaxing flavor out of grapes.”

It wasn’t until decades later, after a messy divorce and serious injury, that Lemstrom felt drawn to winemaking. “I was flipping through channels and landed on Bottle Shock, the movie about the first American wines to beat the French in a blind tasting in Paris,” he says. “It was about a middle-aged guy trying to make something of a rundown vineyard. I connected with that. The character charmed me, and before the credits even rolled, I had enrolled in wine school.”

Lemstrom spent 2014 learning the profession at Umpqua Community College’s Southern Oregon Wine Institute. Today, Los Rocosos (Spanish for “The Rocks”) produces small-batch, terroir-driven wines gaining serious attention. Lemstrom’s wines range from vibrant Grenache to Sangiovese and Syrah.

With a focus on sustainability and organic farming, Lemstrom admits his operation flies under the radar. “I’m not in that world of big acquisitions or investment groups. It’s just my wife and me, running a small, organic vineyard,” he says. “We have this core group of loyal customers— nearly half are repeat buyers. I make between 400-600 cases a year, tops. People love it, but when it’s sold out, it’s gone.” His wines, like the 2017 Suenos de Luz Reserve Merlot or the 2020 Halcon Perigino Estate Grenache, reflect the unique characteristics of The Rocks District— minerality, depth and an unmistakable sense of place.

Despite his original path, Lemstrom’s wines have earned accolades, with golds, double golds, and platinums in wine competitions. “It’s funny,” he says, “I never planned any of this, but it all just made sense to me.”

Ben Martin, Owner and winemaker at Dauntless Wine Co.

Ben Martin’s military background definitely influences the winery’s ethos. He reflects on Dauntless Wine Co.’s inception with a mix of nostalgia and pride. “When we started Dauntless, it wasn’t just about making wine. It was about creating something that could help veterans, like a form of agrotherapy,” he explains. The winery's name, “Dauntless,” perfectly captures the spirit of overcoming daunting challenges, both in the military and winemaking.

After leaving the Marines in 2006, Martin struggled with the transition to civilian life, a common experience for many veterans. “The military is a collective mindset, and when you leave, you’re thrown back into a society that's often more individualistic,” he says. This sense of disconnection sparked his interest in wine combined with agriculture as a form of therapy. “I heard about the French Foreign Legion’s approach to rehabilitating veterans through winemaking; although I wasn’t a wine drinker at the time, the idea stuck with me.”

By 2014, the vision began to evolve. With no prior winemaking experience, Martin, along with business partners Ryan Mills and Paul Warmbier, plunged into the world of wine. Their first crush, the following year, became a spontaneous venture spurred by an unexpected offer of Pinot Noir grapes. “We were literally figuring things out on the fly,” Martin recalls. “We borrowed equipment, enlisted friends and made it happen. It was raw, but that’s part of what makes it special.”

Today, Dauntless Wine Co. is renowned for its diverse selections, from classic Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris and Chardonnay to innovative varietals like Leon Millot. “Our 2020 Pinot Noir, 'Overlord,' is a standout. Despite the challenges of the year, we managed to pull off something beautiful,” Martin says. The winery’s tasting rooms— in downtown Forest Grove and at the Old 47 Estate Vineyard— honors military history and vintage aesthetics, complete with Civil War admiral swords, WWII paratrooper motorcycles and Japanese samurai swords.

Following changes to the ownership— Warmbier sold his share in the company and Mills’ moved to silent partnership— Martin continues to head the winery with pride. One of the most anticipated events salutes this month’s Marine Corps birthday. Picture a tasting room filled with Marines and wine enthusiasts. It’s a raucous, joyous occasion overflowing with camaraderie and wine— something for which Martin and his team feel immense pride.

Chris Fladwood, Director of Winemaking & Viticulture at Soter Vineyards

Chris Fladwood feels certain wine saved him. His introduction appeared in the most unlikely place: Baghdad, 2004. “We were deployed, and care packages would come in from families, strangers— people just trying to send a little comfort. Usually, it was beef jerky, socks, maybe a romance novel,” Fladwood recalls. “But one day, instead of the usual pile of socks, I got a book: From Vines to Wines by Jeff Cox. I remember sitting in 120-degree heat, reading about winemaking while the glue holding the pages together was melting. That book changed my life.”

Fladwood, a 21-year-old infantry soldier, patrolled the streets of Baghdad in the searing heat. “I thought wine was just alcohol in a box, something kids stole from their parents,” he quips. But a sergeant named Matthew Mikolas, who had traveled and enjoyed wines from Japan to Italy, changed his perspective. “We’d be driving around Baghdad, talking about Grand Cru wines— I was introduced to a world I didn’t even know existed.”

Fladwood returned to civilian life and a challenging transition. “To be honest, coming back from a war zone, the quiet was deafening. I was angry and lost, and I didn’t have the tools to process it. But winemaking became my outlet. I wasn’t good at writing or painting, but with wine, I could express myself creatively and productively.”

In 2009, Fladwood joined Soter Vineyards in the Willamette Valley, recognized for its commitment to biodynamic farming and crafting elegant Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The vineyard's approach emphasizes ecological balance, sustainability, soil health, and biodiversity.

As the winemaker at Soter, Fladwood’s work reflects the vineyard's core values: thoughtful farming and intentional craftsmanship. “I consider myself an artist,” he explains, “but my medium is grapes and wine. I live and breathe wine. It’s saved me, and I’m forever grateful for that care package and the sergeant who unknowingly sparked this journey.”

Kelly and JJ Menozzi at Aluvé

Kelly and JJ Menozzi’s trajectory began at the United States Air Force Academy, where they met and shared a passion for aviation. Over 23 years of service, their globe-trotting lifestyle lead them to wine regions around the world— from the verdant vineyards of Europe to the rolling hills of Idaho. “Everywhere we went, from France to Italy, we were enchanted by small estate wineries,” says JJ.

While stationed in Idaho in 2000, they discovered Walla Walla, a then-nascent wine region with fewer than 20 wineries. “It was a revelation,” JJ recalls. “We were captivated not only by the wine but also the community of winemakers who were so supportive of each other.”

In 2005, they made a daring move, purchasing 24 acres on Mill Creek Road. The following year, the couple planted their first vines, Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay.

Their transition from military life to winemaking became more than a career shift; it was realizing a lifelong dream. “Growing up in an Italian family with a great-grandfather who made wine in his basement, I always felt a connection to this craft,” JJ shares.

Aluvé’s philosophy reflects their small-batch approach. They source additional fruit from select Walla Walla vineyards, all with a shared passion for quality. Their gravity-fed system handles the grapes gently and maintains their integrity. Fermentation occurs in small, temperature-controlled tanks, ensuring precise control. Their wines are aged in French oak barrels, creating subtle nuances and depth.

“Most winemaking is done in the vineyard,” JJ emphasizes. “Our approach is about respecting the land and making wine that reflects the unique qualities of our estate and other carefully chosen vineyards.”

Throughout their journey, the Menozzis have maintained a connection to similar values that guided them in the Air Force— discipline, dedication and an unwavering commitment to excellence. “Just as in the military, winemaking requires precision and patience. It’s a process of continuous learning and improvement.”

Cameron Nelson at Résolu Cellars

At Résolu Cellars, Scott Nelson’s journey began in 2005 when a friend introduced him to hobby winemaking. Two years later, his newfound enthusiasm resulted in a serious pursuit, crafting a variety of wines that hinted at his future commercial ambitions. The watershed moment began with the return of his son, Cameron, from military service. Cameron's decision to study winemaking using his GI Bill resulted in their official launch in 2014.

“When I returned from the Marines and heard about my dad’s winemaking adventures, I saw it as the perfect opportunity,” Cameron shares. “My experiences have definitely lent themselves to the winemaking process: attention to detail, holding ourselves to high standards but, most of all, a desire to create community and support within the industry.”

Scott and Cameron’s approach to winemaking is defined by balancing tradition with innovation. Blending old-world techniques with modern practices, they focus on small-batch ferments and precise yeast inoculation to enhance each varietal’s unique characteristics. This method allows them to create approachable yet distinct premium wines.

One of their most exceptional: Triomphe, a Bordeaux-style blend. “The Triomphe is a tribute to the military,” Cameron says. “We donate $3 from every bottle sale to veterans’ charities. It’s our way of giving back.” The blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Merlot and Petit Verdot, is carefully aged and released on Veterans Day each year. “We age each varietal separately for 16 months before blending, then it ages further to achieve the perfect balance,” Scott explains.

The Vino Barbitivo, comprised of Barbera and Primitivo, remains another favorite. “It’s a unique blend that has quickly become popular,” Cameron notes. “We strive to create wines that stand out and offer something different.”

After their recent move to a larger facility in Hillsboro, Résolu Cellars is poised for growth. Expansion enabled them to increase production and explore new varietals like the Primitivo, relatively rare in the region. The new location also allows deeper engagement with the vibrant cultural scene in Historic Downtown Hillsboro, along with local winery collaborations.

Aakanksha Agarwal is a wine, travel and lifestyle writer from India. Formerly a Bollywood stylist, she now resides in the U.S., embracing writing full-time while juggling family life and indulging in her passions for cuisine, literature and wanderlust.