Eggs and Wine

“Eggs are tough on wine, but there are several that work well,” said Natalie MacLean who edits one of the largest wine sites on the web at

“Unoaked Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling all have complementary citrus and herbal flavours without the heavy wood and tannin flavours. That’s why big red wines, such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz, can clash with the sulfur compounds in egg dishes, making the wine taste flat and metallic.

“Also consider sparkling wine, whether it’s classic Champagne from France or bubblies from another region,” MacLean added. “The bubbles cleanse your palate between each bite to make the next one even tastier.”

MacLean offers Drink Matcher, a tool on her website that pairs wines with more than 20 egg-based dishes. The pairings are also available in her free mobile app. 


Oeufs En Meurette (Poached Farm Eggs, Pinot Noir Sauce, Porcini Mushrooms and Jowl Bacon)

Paul Bachand, Farm to Fork, Dundee

“While traveling through the Côte-d’Or in 2004, a group of friends and I were invited to have dinner at a wine exporter’s house in Premeaux-Prissey, a tiny village just north of Beaune. Being a chef, I insisted on helping him and his mother cook for the group. This is where I learned to make Oeufs en Meurrete (eggs in red wine sauce). When porcini mushrooms are in season, I would highly recommend sourcing some at your local farmers market.” —Paul Bachand, executive chef of Farm to Fork



8 farm fresh eggs
1 bottle (750 ml) Pinot Noir
2 cups brown veal or chicken stock
1 onion, thinly sliced
1 carrot, thinly sliced
1 celery stalk, thinly sliced
1 garlic clove, crushed
1 pound porcini mushrooms, sliced thick (crimini or portabello to substitute)
1 bouquet garni of thyme sprigs, parsley stems and a bay leaf (tie into cheesecloth)
½ teaspoon black peppercorns
* salt and pepper
2 tablespoons butter (for thickening sauce)
2 tablespoons flour (for thickening sauce)


2 tablespoons butter
¼ pound jowl bacon, thick sliced (I prefer Tails & Trotters Hazelnut-Finished Pork)
18 baby onions, peeled
2 tablespoons chopped parsley


8 long slices of baquette
* oil for frying

1. Melt half the butter in a medium saucepan, add the mushrooms and sauté on high heat until caramelized (4 to 5 minutes). Remove mushrooms, add bacon with the remaining butter, and fry until brown. Lift out the bacon and drain on paper towels. Add the baby onions and sauté them gently until brown and tender, shaking the pan often so they color evenly (10 to 15 minutes). Drain off all the fat, replace the mushrooms and bacon, heat through, set aside and keep warm. 2. To make the croûtes, slice baguettes on the bias into 6-inch-long slices about ½-inch thick; heat oil in large sauté pan and fry on both sides until golden. Season with salt and pepper; keep warm. 3. To poach the eggs, bring the wine and stock to a simmer over medium heat. Using a whisk, swirl the water to create a whirlpool effect. Lower the heat and poach 4 eggs at a time (5 to 6 minutes) until the whites are firm but still soft to the touch. Lift out the eggs with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Poach the remaining eggs the same way. Add the onion, carrot, celery, garlic, bouquet garni and peppercorns to the poaching liquid and simmer until it is concentrated and reduced by half (20 to 25 minutes). 4. To thicken the sauce, crush the butter on a plate with a fork and work in the flour to form a soft paste. Whisk this kneaded butter — a piece at a time — into the simmering wine mixture until it becomes thick enough to lightly coat a spoon. Strain the sauce over the garnish of mushrooms and bacon, pressing on the carrot, onion and celery to extract all the liquid and flavor. Bring the sauce to a boil, taste, and adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper, add eggs back to the sauce and heat until yolks are still runny and warm. 5. To assemble, put croûte on bottom of plate with a bit of sauce underneath. Place slices of mushrooms on top of croûtes overlapping each other. Top with two poached eggs. Spoon sauce over eggs. Garnish with the bacon and onions. Sprinkle with chopped parsley. Serves 4 as an entrée. 


Beef Tenderloin Tartare with Slow-Poached Egg and Arugula

Chris Dennett, Elements Tapas, Medford

“The significance of this dish is that it is a modern variation of the traditional steak tartare. I think the recipe makes it more interesting and gives the dish a modern flair that will resound with home cooks.” —Chris Dennett, general manger of Elements Tapas Bar & Lounge

WINE SUGGESTION: Chardonnay or Rosé


12 ounces beef tenderloin
15 “Sweet 100” cherry tomatoes, halved
2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
1 teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon salt
2 sprigs thyme
1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley


4 eggs, preferably organic and free range
1 tablespoon olive oil
* pinch of salt (fleur de sel) for each egg


4 ounces baby arugula
1 tablespoon olive oil
* season to taste

1.Preheat oven to 170°F. 2. While preheating, cut tenderloin into small dice and refrigerate. Put tomatoes on sheet pan cut-side up, top with garlic slices and evenly sprinkle the sugar, salt and thyme. Put tomatoes in oven and cook for approximately 3 hours or until dehydrated. Once dehydrated, rough chop and add to tartare. Continue to refrigerate until plating. 3. To prepare the eggs, bring 2 quarts water to just below boiling in a pot. You should not see bubbles on the bottom of the pot. Take a cup or small bowl and line with a 12-by-12-inch piece of plastic wrap. Drizzle in a small amount of olive oil and crack one egg into the plastic wrap. Bring the sides of the wrap up and twist to create an air pouch. Tie off with string or roll another piece of plastic wrap to create a rope. Repeat for the other eggs. Then very gently add eggs to water, and poach for approximately 6 minutes, or until white has coagulated. Remove eggs from water and set aside. 4. To plate, toss arugula with just enough olive oil to coat and season to taste. Place arugula on plate as a base. Spoon 4 ounces tartare into a 2-inch mold, if you have one, or directly on top of greens. Open the egg pouch and very carefully with a spoon remove egg and place on top of tartare. Drizzle with olive oil and a pinch of fleur de sel. Serves 4. 


Open-Faced Foie Gras Omelette

Matt and Janel Bennett, Sybaris, Albany

“When we serve foie gras at the restaurant, there is always delicious fat left in the pan. We will either fry bread in it as a cook’s treat or make this dish if I am feeling generous to the crew.” —Matt Bennett, co-owner/chef of Sybaris


4 ounces duck foie gras, preferably Hudson Valley Grade A
6 farm fresh eggs, lightly beaten
* salt and pepper, to taste

1. Preheat oven to 400°F. 2. Tear the liver into, more or less, 1-inch chunks and place in a 6-inch cast iron skillet; season with salt and pepper. Gently heat on a medium flame. When the fat just starts to melt, add the eggs all at once and stir to combine. 3. Roast in oven to just set the eggs. Serve with toast as an appetizer or with a salad for lunch. Serves 2. 


Yum Khai Dao (Crispy Fried Egg Salad)

Andy Ricker, Pok Pok, Portland

“Yum Khai Dao is pretty much ubiquitous throughout Thailand. I first encountered it while waiting on a boat landing for a bus from Ko Samet back to Bangkok.” —Andy Ricker, chef/owner of Pok Pok and Ping



¾ ounce fish sauce
¾ ounce lime juice

¾ ounce palm sugar syrup (1/2 palm sugar, ½ water by volume, combine and heat to dissolve)
1 teaspoon sliced Thai chili, 1/8-inch
1 teaspoon thin-sliced garlic


2 eggs, crispy fried (yolk molten but set)
* handful chopped Chinese celery
¼ cup julienned white onions
¼ cup julienned carrot
1 cup chopped lettuce, 2-inch dice
* small handful picked cilantro sprigs

1. Warm dressing in pan with chilies and garlic. Chop eggs into 1-inch pieces. Throw in veggies and eggs. Toss and dump on medium oval plate. Pull herbs towards top. 


Harriet’s Deviled Eggs

Ben Stenn, Celilo Restaurant, Hood River

“Harriet is my Grandmother. She is 95 and was an exceptional cook in her time. We share many recipes, and she is my link to the family’s culinary past. We both love eggs and the considerable range of preparations. We enjoy the legend of the chef’s toque. Each fold represents a different recipe for the formidable egg. Deviled eggs are a mainstay. From Harriet: ‘Find me someone who doesn’t love them!’” —Ben Stenn, chef/owner of Celilo.


1 dozen farm fresh eggs
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
2 tablespoons mayonaise
½ teaspoon smoked paprika
½ teaspoon sea salt (or to taste), plus extra salt for boiling water
½ teaspoon fresh ground pepper    

1. Bring a large pot of heavily salted water to a boil. Gently lower eggs into boiling water. Reduce heat so water remains at a simmer (not heavy boil). Boil eggs for 12 minutes, then remove and place in ice water bath. Cool eggs for 5 to 10 minutes, then remove shell. 2. Slice eggs in half. Remove cooked yolks to a small mixing bowl. Reserve halved whites open side up on a service platter. Using a fork with long tines, incorporate mustard and mayo, and then dry seasonings. Taste and adjust seasoning for salt. 3. Fill a small piping bag (or use a Ziploc bag, squeeze the yolk mix into a corner and snip the corner to leave a ¼-inch opening.) Pipe the yolk mix back into the cavity of the whites. Decorate with a tiny sprinkle more of smoked paprika. Makes 24 servings. 

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