Cork and Comfort
Be inspired by these food and wine pairings from the Umpqua Valley


By Gail Oberst
Maybe it’s been raining for two weeks straight, and you’re stir-crazy. Maybe your Valentine just dumped you, and the media’s background roar of perfect love is drowning out your natural default to self-love. Maybe the kids are driving you crazy. Maybe it’s the weekend and you changed from bed wear to couch wear, where you’re watching the dismal February sports productions while texting stupid memes to your buddies.
Never mind. It’s February, an ideal month to enjoy comfort foods. You already have in your bailiwick everything you need to survive: the food your mama made; the bowls or plates of steaming stuff you can whip up, buy at the deli or even order to be delivered in minutes and consumed with gusto; the simple foods that take the edge off boredom, loneliness, sadness or just a protracted, wet Oregon winter.
And we’re here to remind you comfort foods deserve to dance with a great Oregon wine.
Following are wines we’ve paired with our favorite comfort foods, all from the Umpqua River watershed, for no other reason except we discovered many exciting wines while attending last summer’s Harvest Tour. Take these pairings as inspiration.
Tomato soup and Knostman Estate Sauvignon Blanc
Owner/winemaker Chuck Knostman had never paired his wines with tomato soup before we suggested it. When he heated up a pot, he was amazed. “I’m never having tomato soup and grilled cheese again without our Sauvignon Blanc,” he said. “The soup with the wine was silky on the palate and, when you dunked the sandwich in the soup, the wine amplified the Gouda cheese, elevating the wine’s citrus notes. So delicious! This pairing made me so happy; it is truly comfort in a bowl.”
According to Knostman, the wine has aromas of nectarine, with flavors of grapefruit and soft pear followed by lime zest, accentuating the soup’s tomato flavors. The 2023 vintage was aged for eight months in new acacia and neutral oak barrels, lending a velvety mouthfeel.
Clam chowder with Pinot Gris from River’s Edge Winery or Girardet Vineyards and Winery
Oregonians typically make their chowder with a New England-style thick and creamy potato base, as opposed to the tomato and broth Manhattan style. My grandfather– a native Oregon “South Coastie”– added corn and lots of pepper to his version, tossing in the raw chopped clams at the last minute, so they were always tender. Even if your chowder is canned, dress it up with a handful of corn, then with a pat of salted butter, some grated cheese or a dash of smoked paprika.
Colin Duddy, general manager of River’s Edge Winery, in the Elkton region, suggests pairing chowder with a glass of their golden Pinot Gris. “Notes of apple and pear seamlessly meld with the chowder’s savory, slightly sweet flavors, adding a bright, juicy contrast. Hints of lemon curd and ginger bring a gentle warmth, cutting through the chowder’s creaminess, leaving a refreshing, smooth finish to balance each bite,” he said.
Nearly an hour south of Elkton, in the hundred valleys of the Umpqua, Marc Girardet of Girardet Vineyards and Winery, said: “Our Pinot Gris is a nice full-bodied, fruit-forward style with a dry, creamy finish. It pairs well with seafood in general, but I think it would be exceptional with something like a chowder because the wine’s heft complements the creamy texture.”
Chili with Spangler Vineyards Cabernet Franc
The 2020 rendition of Spangler’s Cabernet Franc has earned multiple awards and glowing write-ups. All agree this wine is perfect with a mild homemade chili or store-bought chili with or without beans, according to Pat Spangler, owner and winemaker, whose winery is located between Winston and Roseburg.
“This wine doesn’t pair well with a very spicy chili, but its softer, rounder notes elevate milder, savory chili,” he said. While some Cabernet Francs can tend to be acidic, Spangler’s is rich and full-bodied, with aromas of dried oregano and flavors of red pepper– among others– that complement the chili. For those making their own chili, he recommends adding bison, lamb, smoked sausage or game meat– to enhance the wine’s earthy qualities. He also suggested using oregano or sage while cooking a favorite chili, or topping it with grated parmesan, gorgonzola or gruyère cheeses.
And, for our vegetarian friends: “Try topping with cooked Swiss chard or other vegetables,” he said. “The Cabernet Franc goes great with greens.”
Macaroni and cheese with either Lexème Rosé or Gamay Noir
Wines from Gamay grapes pair well with many foods, including the humble macaroni and cheese, according to Monja Hudson, owner of Lexème Wines. “It has a delicate structure and abundance of berry notes, making it the perfect pairing for a luxurious, quick, at-home mac and cheese,” she said. Using grapes from the Elkton region of the Umpqua Valley, Lexème makes both a Rosé of Gamay Noir and a red Gamay Noir.
Hudson suggests a simple preparation: Grate your choice of hard cheese or a nice piece of gruyère or comté. Heat a half-cup of heavy whipping cream in a pot, add the shredded cheese and stir until melted, tossing in cooked pasta, “Et voilà! Add some bacon bits for extra aroma explosion when paired with Lexème Gamay!” she said.
Fried chicken with Cooper Ridge Vineyard Sparkling Pinot Noir
Thanks to your local deli or KFC, this classic comfort food is hot and ready when you’re too tired to cook. Want to know how to make this common food a real treat? You guessed it already. Cooper Ridge’s Sparkling Pinot Noir– a December Oregon Wine Press Cellar Select.
“Pair Cooper Ridge Vineyard’s limited edition Sparkling Pinot Noir for a delightful blend of flavors,” suggests Heather Noel Williams, marketing manager. The wine’s medium body and dry, fruit-driven profile— featuring tastes of mixed berries, dark cherry and a touch of toasted oak—brightens the richness of the fried chicken while adding a hint of warmth, she said.
If you’re baking or barbecuing (true Oregonians don’t let the rain stop them), this wine also pairs comfortably with meats cooked in a sweet barbecue sauce, including chicken, turkey or grilled salmon and pork ribs.
Pizza or spaghetti with Trella Vineyards Barbera or JosephJane Winery Bandit’s Red Blend (Syrah and Tempranillo)
Bless the Italians for inspiring two beloved American comfort foods. Is there anything more soothing after a hard day than a plate of spaghetti and meatballs or a slice or two (or three) of pizza? Yes, there is. Enjoy either with Barbera from Southern Oregon grapes gathered by Trella Vineyards. Then get out your concertina and squeezebox away the blues. Barbera’s high acids and low tannins cut through residual oils in meats and its medium body meets tangy tomato sauce tongue-to-tongue.
“The Barbera fruit was grown in the Rogue Valley, where they have sufficient heat to ripen this fantastic Northern Italian grape,” said owner Stephen Williams. Barbera tastes sublime with rich meats, mushrooms and cheese, all common pizza toppings and spaghetti ingredients. “Barrel aged for 24 months by our Umpqua Valley winemaker, Terry Brandborg, the wine has balanced bright acids, a deliciously soft mouthfeel, subtle tannins and notes of nutmeg, spice and cranberry,” he said.
Looking for an afternoon with Umpqua pizza? Satisfy your craving for wood-fired pizza at JosephJane Winery’s spacious tasting room, 15 minutes north of downtown Roseburg. Pair your favorite pie with their Bandit’s Red Blend, a balanced union of Syrah and Tempranillo. “The Bandit’s Red Blend superb flavors of dark berries and spices stand up to the acidity and flavors of meat-based sauces,” said Kayla Glaser, co-owner of JosephJane.
Umpqua peanut butter chocolate ice cream with JosephJane SuperSweet or Cooper Ridge Vineyard Docé Luxo
If you assumed the only cure for heartbreak was ice cream, you are partly right. Add a rich, sweet wine, and maybe a few friends to malign the heartbreaker, and you’ve got the makings for a comforting diversion from sorrow. Try Umpqua Dairy’s chocolate peanut butter ice cream with JosephJane’s “decadently sweet” SuperSweet Riesling. The dessert wine is splendid with cheesecake topped with berries as well as divine with ice cream. “The SuperSweet’s ‘bam!’ of sweetness and luscious flavors of lychee fruit balance out a creamy, rich chocolate peanut butter ice cream,” said Glaser.
At Cooper Ridge, Williams calls their port-style Docé Luxo pairing with the ice cream “luxurious.” Aged over 40 months in oak and whiskey barrels, the Tempranillo and Syrah blend has a smooth warmth to each sip, enhancing the creamy, nutty sweetness of the ice cream, she said. “Hints of dark fruit and caramel from the wine complement the dessert’s flavors beautifully, creating a balanced, indulgent experience that’s both bold and satisfying.”
These wines may be tricky to find if you don’t live in the Umpqua Valley; but fear not, buy them directly from the wineries. Website links can be found here: www.umpquavalleywineries.org/wineries.
Gail Oberst has been a Northwest writer, editor and publisher for decades. Among her favorite gigs was business editor for the News-Register, and editor pro temp for three months for the Oregon Wine Press. Inspired by the OWP, she founded the Oregon Beer Growler with her family, later selling it to Oregon Lithoprint. She continues to edit and write a wide range of articles for magazines, and weekly and regional newspapers. Recently, she published her first fiction novel, Valkyrie Dance, available on Amazon, and is working on her second, San Souci. She lives with her husband, Michael Cairns, a retired ecologist, in Independence, Oregon. They have four grown children and seven grandchildren.