Chef Kali Martin and Archery Summit romance guests with cacao
Story by Valerie Estelle Rogers | Photos by Andrea Johnson
As the winter mist drapes its chilly coat outdoors, you head inside to remove your own, grabbing a blanket, a glass of wine and something to nibble — maybe cheese or, better yet, chocolate. You sit and watch the drizzly weather from a cozy chair; you notice a red-headed “bird” gathering ingredients for a winter meal. In a swift moment, she is tapping on the window with her eye on the chocolate.
Tangerine, Chocolate and Vanilla Salad Archery Summit Vireton Rosé
Chocolate Hazelnut Soup with Orange Oil
Archery Summit Vireton Pinot Gris
Chocolate, Chestnut and Hazelnut Gnocchi with Browned Butter Sauce
Archery Summit 2012 Premier Cuvée Pinot Noir
Cocoa-Rubbed Short Ribs with Winter Vegetables
Archery Summit 2012 Renegade Ridge Pinot Noir
Archery Summit 2012 Looney Vineyard Pinot Noir
Citrus & Chocolate Tartlets
Archery Summit 2012 Arcus Estate Pinot Noir
Archery Summit 2012 Archery Summit Estate
Let her in and invite your friends; you are in for memorable meal.
Enter Kali Martin, a rising chef whose culinary talent is memorable. On Dec. 17, at a dinner called simply called LOVE, Martin, owner of the catering company Bird Is the Word, prepared a five-course meal inspired by chocolate and paired with Archery Summit wine. The dinner took place in one of the most romantic atmospheres, Archery Summit’s barrel caves, and hosted eight new-found friends with candlelight and soft music playing from vintage vinyls on a record player.
The atmosphere was magical, but it played second fiddle to the food, the chocolate.
“I was inspired to take an ingredient that’s typically associated with Valentine’s Day and see how I could pair it with Archery Summit’s deep, rich wines and apply it in different ways, from sweet to savory,” Martin said. “Chocolate was the choice, both an obvious and welcomed challenge.”
When Kali (Kaleigha) Martin was growing up in Spokane, Washington, her father affectionately called her “Bird.” Today, her wavy auburn hair remains her signature look beyond her Easy-Bake childhood days. In 2004, she left home for Oregon, where, after earning her bachelors of arts in Newberg, she landed in Portland to fulfill her Oregon Culinary Institute certification — at the top of her class — in 2011. Her résumé grew with experience at Paley’s Place followed by Community Plate in McMinnville, the heart of the northern Willamette Valley. Born from thriving relationships in wine country and Martin’s vision for creating fine culinary experiences for intimate groups, Bird is the Word officially opened in spring 2013.
A chocolate-inspired dinner would seem a challenge for most chefs, but with her creativity and talent, Martin made the dinner look effortless. A smart business woman, she surrounds herself with equally talented friends like artist Maija Rebecca, who illustrated the evening’s whimsical menus, Andrea Carpenter, the dinner’s experienced server, and Bailey Patrice, the owner of Forest & Field, who adorned the table with a freshly foraged centerpiece — the flowers were recycled after being rescued from a florist’s discards.
Working alongside and showcasing other professionals is something Martin is passionate about. On her website, www.birdisthewordpdx.com, she features an ongoing column called “A Day in the Life,” in which Martin interviews those who inspire her or whom she partners with at events. She also shares recipes and insights into a world of cooking and entertaining that even Julia Child might have been praised.
Julia would have delighted in Martin’s imaginative feast.
The chocolate was subtle yet sensational in each dish and paired perfectly with citrus in most of the courses. The evening started with an almost exotic tangerine, chocolate and vanilla salad followed by a surprisingly savory chocolate hazelnut soup with orange oil. The third course, chocolate, chestnut and hazelnut gnocchi with browned butter sauce, melted in the mouth. Next was the main course, unforgettably tender cocoa-rubbed short ribs with winter vegetables; and, finally, dessert: citrus and chocolate tartlets.
Glasses were raised repeatedly throughout the evening with rosé, Pinot Gris and Archery Summit’s signature varietal, Pinot Noir. Guests swirled, sniffed and sipped the lush wines expertly poured by Karina Gordon, the winery’s tasting room manager. She eloquently spoke about each wine and a bit about Archery Summit, too.
Founded in 1993 by Gary Andrus, Archery Summit sources its fruit from the Dundee Hills winery’s 120 acres across six estate vineyards: Archer’s Edge, Archery Summit Estate, Red Hills, Arcus, Renegade Ridge and Looney. Wines are made by winemaker/general manager Chris Mazepink and his assistants, Eleni Papadakis and Corey Beyer.
The winery is the only one in the state to boast natural caves. Modeled after those found in Burgundy’s Côte d’Or, Archery Summit’s subterranean showpiece is carved from the natural volcanic rock beneath the estate. The caves naturally maintain 55°F to 59°F throughout the year, with a humidity level below 75 percent, optimal conditions for storing wines maturing in barrel.
Perfect for a dreamy dinner as well, especially one titled LOVE, covered in chocolate and made by a “bird.”
Dark Chocolate Hazelnut Soup
(Adapted from Oh Joy!)
Serves 4 to 6
1½ pounds hazelnuts, roasted
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons adobo sauce
1 bulb fennel, cleaned and sliced thinly
1 yellow onion, peeled and sliced
1 cup heavy cream
2 oranges, zest and juice
32 ounces vegetable stock
1 bar dark chocolate (72% cacao)
1 cup organic canola oil
* salt and pepper to taste
1. In a heavy stock pot, heat olive oil on medium heat. Add onions, fennel and adobo sauce; cook until tender. Add hazelnuts, salt and pepper, and cook for 5 minutes on medium heat to caramelize.
2. Add orange juice, heavy cream and stock. Bring to high heat until bubbles form; then lower to a simmer, and cook for 12 to 15 minutes.
3. Remove pot from heat. Strain out about half of hazelnuts (save or discard). Break up chocolate into stock pot and stir to incorporate. Pour in a blender and blend to smooth (approximately 2 to 3 minutes). Garnish with orange oil* and grated chocolate.
*Orange oil: Zest two oranges into 1 cup canola oil; bring to a simmer. Remove from heat, and let cool. Strain out zest.
Cocoa-Rubbed Short Ribs with Winter Vegetables
Serves 4 to 6
⅓ cup unsweetened cocoa powder
½ cup light brown sugar
3 tablespoons ancho chili powder
2 tablespoons kosher salt
2 tablespoons granulated onion
1 tablespoon granulated garlic
1 tablespoon dried oregano
1 tablespoon dried mustard
2 teaspoons dried ginger
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground allspice
2 carrots, large dice
2 yellow onions, large dice
1 head garlic, sliced in half
3 sprigs rosemary
½ stick butter
4 pounds beef short ribs
2 tablespoons espresso powder (or 2 cups espresso)
* hot water
1 bottle red wine
4 carrots, peeled and large dice
2 yellow onions, large dice
4 Yukon gold potatoes, large dice
1 clove garlic
* olive oil
* salt and pepper
1. Preheat oven to 300°F. 2. Rub ribs with salt and pepper, cocoa, sugar and spices. Melt ¼ stick of butter in a large pot and sear first half of short ribs on both sides, until caramelized. 3. While ribs are searing, chop vegetables and herbs; place in a large roasting pan. Make espresso using hot water and espresso powder, or use espresso from a coffee shop. 4. Once ribs are seared, add them to the roasting pan with the vegetables. Pour in espresso and bottle of red wine. Cover and braise in oven for 6 hours, or until ribs are falling off the bone. 5. Once ribs are done, remove 4 cups of braising liquid and simmer in a smaller saucepan until reduced by half. Use as a sauce. Season with salt and pepper. 6. Serve short ribs on top of the roasted vegetables.
1. Preheat oven to 400°F.
2. Peel and chop vegetables. Toss veggies in olive oil, salt and pepper, and roast until tender, about 20 to 25 minutes.
Citrus and Chocolate Tartlets
Serves 4 (2 x 4 in tart shells)
DOUGH (adapted from Martha Stewart)
1½ cups all-purpose flour
¼ cup unsweetened cocoa powder
½ cup sugar
|½ teaspoon salt
½ cup (1 stick) chilled unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
2 large egg yolks
2 tablespoons heavy cream, chilled
½ teaspoon pure vanilla extract
FILLING /TOPPING (adapted from Happy Yolks)
3 cups heavy cream
¾ cup sugar
½ cup flour
¼ teaspoon salt
8 egg yolks
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 teaspoon orange juice
1 tablespoon molasses
1. Place flour, cocoa, sugar and salt in food processor; pulse to combine. Add butter; pulse until mixture resembles coarse meal, about 10 seconds. Add yolks, cream and vanilla; process until mixture comes together.
2. Turn out dough onto plastic wrap; flatten into a disk. Wrap well; refrigerate at least 30 minutes or until ready to use, up to 2 days.
3. Preheat oven to 350°F. Line greased tartlet pans with dough (rolled about ¼” thick) and lightly poke holes in the bottom with a fork. Bake until firm to the touch, about 20–25 minutes.
1. Warm cream in saucepan until it begins to steam, not boil.
2. In medium bowl, stir together flour, sugar and salt; add egg yolks. Whisking them in will create a crumbly paste-like mixture. This is totally normal.
3. Pour warm cream from saucepan into bowl of egg-flour paste; once everything has combined, return mixture to saucepan over medium heat. WHISK CONSTANTLY. It will begin to thicken after a few minutes. Pause whisking after a few minutes and see if it begins to boil, if so, remove from heat.
4. Stir vanilla into cream and pour into fine mesh strainer over bowl in sink. Push cream through the strainer to catch tiny bits of cooked egg. Place bowl in fridge and let chill completely for 2 hours. When cream is cooled, stir in molasses and orange juice.
5. Fill cooled tart shells with pastry cream. Thinly slice oranges and blood oranges, and arrange at will. Top with chopped mint, crushed and roasted almonds and/or shaved chocolate.