FOOD

Salmon Run

Spawn a feast with Oregon’s state fish

Salmon Toast

Serves 6 to 8

Wine Pairing: Dry Riesling

INGREDIENTS

1 baguette

3–4 medium to large ripe avocados

1 lemon, juiced

3–4 sprigs cilantro

3–4 sprigs parsley

1 sprig tarragon

3 radishes, thinly sliced

1 red onion, halved, thinly sliced

½ cup white vinegar

1 tablespoon pickling spice

3 tablespoons kosher salt

3 tablespoons white sugar

12 ounces fresh salmon filet, center cut

1 small jalapeño, diced very fine

* olive oil

* salt and pepper

3 tablespoons mascarpone, optional

DIRECTIONS

  1. In small to medium pot, add pickling spice, vinegar, salt and sugar along with 1½ cups water; bring to a boil. Place half finely sliced red onion in bowl or canning jar; pour liquid through fine strainer over onions. Let rest. This step can be done several hours or even a day or two ahead.
  2. Make sure salmon is free of pin bones. Slice salmon into ¼-inch strips lengthwise. Turn slices on their side and cut in half; then cross dice to achieve pinky nail-sized pieces; add to medium mixing bowl. Finely dice remaining half of red onion; add to salmon along with diced jalapeño. Finely chop tarragon, parsley and half the cilantro; add to salmon along with 2 to 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil. Toss all with salt and pepper to taste and lemon juice from half a lemon. Let rest for few minutes in refrigerator.
  3. Slice baguette on lengthy bias cut and drizzle slices with olive oil. Toast lightly in 350°F oven.
  4. In food processor, add avocados and purée until smooth. Add remaining lemon juice, 1 to 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, mascarpone, and salt and pepper to taste.
  5. To assemble; lay out toasted baguette slices and smear a generous amount of avocado “cream” on each. Place heaped spoonful of salmon mixture over avocado, followed by a couple slices of radish, pickled red onion and, finally, a couple cilantro leaves. A small spoonful of salmon roe would be a wonderful addition.

Salade Niçoise

Serves 6 to 8

Wine Pairing: Chardonnay

INGREDIENTS

8 fresh eggs, hard cooked in shell

1 fresh egg, raw

8 ounces olives

1 pound fresh pole beans

2 large lemons, peel and juice

2–3 large tomatoes, cut in wedges

1 red onion, thinly sliced

1 bunch flat leaf parsley

1 bunch garlic chives

12 ounces caper berries

2 heads garlic, cloves peeled

3 pounds fresh mixed greens

1½ pounds new potatoes, boiled with skin on

2 pounds fresh salmon

* extra virgin olive oil

1 cup grapeseed or canola oil

* Dijon mustard

3–6 anchovies, optional

* sea salt and black pepper, to taste

6–8 bay leaves

6–8 wide-mouth half-pint Mason jars with lids and bands

DIRECTIONS

  1. Cut filet in half lengthwise, removing any leftover bones, then cut across in 2-inch lengths. Season with sea salt and fresh ground pepper.
  2. In sterilized jars (one per serving), place 1 bay leaf, 3 garlic cloves, 2 small lemon peels followed by 3 to 4 pieces of salmon. Gently pack down. Fill to just cover the salmon with extra virgin olive oil; cover with lids and bands tightly.
  3. Place all jars in large pot; fill with water to just cover jars. Bring water to a boil and remove from heat. Let stand in pot.
  4. New potatoes should be boiled with skin on until fork tender. Once cool, quarter or halve, depending on size. Season with salt and pepper. Toss with 2 tablespoons chopped parsley and garlic chives each, and 1 tablespoon olive oil.
  5. Toss green beans in heavily salted boiling water for 60 seconds; strain into bowl with ice and water. Remove after 1 to 2 minutes. Once cool, place on towel-lined plate and let dry.
  6. Peel hard cooked eggs and quarter. Season with salt and pepper.
  7. In food processor, add 5 to 6 garlic cloves, anchovies, 1 whole egg, ½ tablespoon sea salt and pepper, lemon juice from half a lemon and 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard. Mix on high until well incorporated. Slowly drizzle in grapeseed oil until it thickens, then add 2 tablespoons chopped parsley and garlic chives each; season to taste.
  8. To assemble, toss cleaned greens in bowl with 2 tablespoons olive oil and 2 tablespoons lemon juice; season with salt and pepper. Place handful of greens on each plate, remove lids and place one jar on each plate, garnish with potatoes, tomato wedges, sliced red onion, green beans, olives, caper berries and eggs. Finish with drizzle of dressing and parsley leaves.

Roast Salmon with Beurre Blanc and Vegetable Hash

Serves 6 to 8

Wine Pairing: Blanc de Blanc Sparkling

INGREDIENTS

6–8 salmon filets, 8 ounces each, 2 inches thick

1½ sticks unsalted butter

1 cup white wine (bubbles work)

2 lemons, juiced

1 sprig fresh tarragon

1 head cauliflower

3 heads broccoli

1 large bunch carrots

1 pound shiitake mushroom

1 pound shishito peppers

1 bunch radishes

1 bunch fresh parsley

2 cloves garlic, crushed

* extra virgin olive oil

* sea salt and black pepper, to taste

DIRECTIONS

  1. Pre-heat oven to 400°F. Place 1 head cauliflower (whole) on baking sheet; drizzle with 2 to 3 tablespoons olive oil, and season with salt and pepper. Place in 400°F oven for 20 to 25 minutes.
  2. Peel and chop carrots into ½-inch pieces; toss with olive oil, salt and pepper. Roast on baking sheet in 400°F oven for 15 to 20 minutes.
  3. Place broccoli (whole) on baking sheet; drizzle with olive oil, and season with salt and pepper. Place in 400°F oven for 8 to 10 minutes.
  4. Remove stems from shiitakes and toss with olive oil; season with salt and pepper and roast in 400°F oven for 6 to 8 minutes.
  5. Remove greens from radishes; toss in olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Roast on baking sheet in 400°F oven for 6 to 8 minutes.
  6. Once cool, cut broccoli and cauliflower into florets; quarter radishes and mushrooms.
  7. Lay out filets on paper towel and pat dry; season both sides with salt and pepper. In large oven-proof skillet on high heat, add 1 tablespoon olive oil and gently add filets flesh side down, being careful not to overcrowd the pan (you may need to cook in batches). Place pan in 400°F oven for 4 to 6 minutes.
  8. In another large pan on medium to high heat, add 2 tablespoons olive oil, crushed garlic and shishito peppers; let brown on both sides. Then add broccoli and cauliflower florets, carrots, mushrooms and radishes. Heat through and finish with parsley leaves and 4 tablespoons butter. Remove from heat and place large spoonful on center of each plate.
  9. Remove salmon from pan and place over hash on each plate. Return pan to high heat, adding 1 cup wine; reduce by half. Slowly add 1 stick butter 1 tablespoon at a time to sauce over low heat until thickened. Add chopped tarragon, 1 tablespoon lemon juice, and salt and pepper. Spoon finished sauce over salmon and around plate.

Goat Cheesecake with Gravlax and Rhubarb Syrup

Serves 6 to 8

Wine Pairing: Gewürztraminer

INGREDIENTS

2 pounds cream cheese

2 pounds fresh chèvre

4 whole eggs

4 egg yolks

1 box graham crackers

½ pound butter, melted

2 lemons, juiced

¾ cup white sugar

1 tablespoon vanilla extract

½ cup white sugar

1 pound rhubarb, cleaned and sliced in ½-inch pieces

1 pint blackberries for garnish

8–10 ounces sliced gravlax

DIRECTIONS

  1. In food processor, or by hand, finely crush 2 packages graham crackers; pour into bowl. Add enough butter until mixture can form a ball, like sand at the beach.
  2. Brush base and sides of 6- to 8-inch springform pan with butter or cooking spray (a round of parchment or wax paper also works very well).
  3. Press cracker mixture in bottom of pan and up edge, until ¼- to ¾-inch thick.
  4. In mixing bowl, add cream cheese and goat cheese; whip on medium speed until very creamy and without lumps. Scrape sides and bottom of bowl, and continue to beat (I let the cheese soften on the counter for an hour or two ahead). While mixing, add ¾ cup of white sugar. Once smooth, add eggs one at a time, followed by lemon juice and, finally, vanilla extract.
  5. Pour over cracker crust in pan and place in a 350°F oven for 20 minutes. Reduce heat to 300°F and bake for another hour, or until cake is firm.
  6. In small pot, add ½ cup sugar, 1 pound rhubarb and cook over medium heat for 20 to 25 minutes; pour through fine strainer and reserve.
  7. Let cheesecake rest overnight in refrigerator and slice into equal pieces.
  8. To serve, place a slice of cheesecake on each plate and a few small slices of gravlax on top, spoon rhubarb syrup over and around cake; add fresh blackberries to plate.

Gravlax

1 2- to 3-pound side of Sockeye salmon, skin on, pin bones removed

½ cup kosher salt

½ cup white sugar

1 tablespoon juniper berries, crushed

4 cloves, crushed

2 star anise, crushed

2 bunches fresh dill

2 tablespoons vodka

1 lemon, zested

1 orange, zested

DIRECTIONS

  1. In large bowl, mix salt, sugar, crushed spices and citrus zest thoroughly.
  2. Drizzle salmon flesh with vodka (optional)
  3. Lay out large piece of plastic wrap and liberally sprinkle half salt and sugar mixture, large enough to lay salmon on top. Place half dill over salt-sugar mixture.
  4. Place salmon, skin side down, on fresh dill and pour remaining salt-sugar mixture over top, plus last of fresh dill. Tightly wrap filet in plastic wrap; place on baking sheet and place another baking sheet over top. Add weight to top and place in refrigerator for 24 hours.
  5. After salmon has cured for 24 hours, remove plastic and lightly rinse off excess salt-sugar mixture. Pat dry and wrap in plastic. Once cured, salmon will keep in refrigerator for weeks.

About Chef Red Hauge

A father, fisherman, forager and gardener, Chef Red resides in McMinnville with his partner, Allyson, and son, Anders. Red has spent 25 years cooking alongside celebrated chefs in internationally renowned restaurants in Chicago, Aspen, Miami, Portland, Boston, St. John USVI and New York. He’s currently working to open a market and restaurant in Yamhill County.

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